Overview
My 2+ years of knowledge in one guide for you.
1.0.(0?) – Looking For Replacement
I’m looking for somebody to take over writing this guide – I’ve lost the time to be able to do so. If you are willing, please drop a comment with your section – I’ll look it over and decide to post it if worthy (I will give credits here).
Thanks, and enjoy the guide.
1.0 – Opening Statement
Let’s be honest – you’re opening up this guide for ways to win. I’ll give you this piece of wisdom in one sentence and crush your hopes and dreams.
You won’t win every battle.
My case in point – I’ve spent two years playing this game and learning the ins and outs, and I still have only managed a 70% win percentage. Now of course, as you climb up the boards in difficulty, you’ll run in to better players. And, *Spoiler Alert* They all use the same deck.
Throughout this guide, I’ll *attempt* to give you my tips to win. My disclaimer, however – you can only get better at this game through practice. You can read this all you want, and implement these strategies to the best of your ability. However, some of these strategies take time to master, and the more you play the game the more you’ll know when to send what type of rushes.
Make sure you check back often, as I am constantly adding new pages.
1.1 – About Me
So… yeah. My resume is…
- 70% Win percentage at 700 battles
- Win ~60% of BFB Coliseum Battles
- 600,000 Medallions
- Roughly 15 Badges
- Recently reset progress (On Steam) and got a feel of the game at lower levels
- Beaten Black Diamond badges, People with 100,000,000+ medallions
Enough about me. On to the game.
1.2 – Changelog
- 1/31/17 – Submitted section 2.2
- 2/7/17 – Submitted section 3.1
- 2/10/17 – Submitted section 2.1.1, 3.2, 3.3, 4.0, Updated to Balance Change 4.1
2.0 – Starting Out
Just started the game, huh? Well, you need are going to be thrust in to a whole game with limited knowledge. From my playing down in yellow/white/lead arenas, I’ve seen multiple mistakes played. However, to master the game, we must start with the basics. I’ll assume that you know what I mean when I say “2-2” or “0-2”, and I’ll assume you know what “Regen” and “Camo” means.
You’re given 5 towers to start with. They are…
- Dart Monkey
- Cannon
- Ninja
- Sniper
- Tack Shooter
I’ll go over them one by one. These tower guides are limited to their 2-2 upgrades.
Ah, one of the staples of the advanced game deck. ALL of the BFB, MOAB, and Ceramic arena players carry it in their deck. This is for three reasons – they are Cheap, Effective, and Versatile. Before I get ahead of myself, here is my rundown of the Dart Monkey, based on the 2-2 upgrades.
-Your best option is to upgrade your dart monkey to 0-2. Anything on the left side is a waste of money until round 12 – you won’t get enough value out of the left side upgrades until later on.
-Once you hit round 12, however, you will need to get at least one monkey up to 2-2. This is for camo protection, and this is one of the most lacking things I see in early game players.
Here, we see a tower that is not used. At all. Nobody in upper level uses this, and I see no use for you to use this even early in the game.
-A 2-0 Tack shooter will clear out a chunk of bloons, but nothing serious.
-A 2-2 Tack shooter basically does the same damage as a 2-0 Tack Shooter – the spikes only last longer, and chances are they won’t survive for the range boost to take effect.
-The range on this is so small, they are not really worth using.
That being said, they can still be effective in a round 4 pink bloon situation. Other than that, you should not carry them.
The cannon will be used sometimes later on, especially in some club battles, so it might be useful to get a feel for them. In the early stages of the game, these are one of the three towers I’d use for a long time.
-The 0-0 cannon is almost useless – it only takes out a small chunk
-The 2-0 cannon is a great way to take out grouped balloons. The Shrapnel will take out a swarm of bloons in a minute.
-The 2-2 cannon is a waste of money. Once again, the range upgrade will not usually effect the cannon, especially its weaknesses. The missile is nice, but adds limited effect. For the extra $800 dollars you pour into this, it is not worth the price.
The cannon has two noticeable weaknesses. First is the black bloon. If you only have a cannon at round six, you need some tower to pop black bloon. Conversely, if your opponent only has a cannon, send out black bloons and they’ll panic for a few moments. Before that, however, you need to be careful of the pinks on round four. I will capitalize, bold this sentence, out of sheer importance – CANNONS CAN NOT AND WILL NOT TAKE OUT PINK BLOONS. YOU WILL DIE FROM THEM ON ROUND 4 WITHOUT EXTRA HELP.
One of the most underused towers and an absolute MUST if you’re starting out. If you do not have a sniper and have a mystery tower that can’t see camo, you will die to a player who notices this on round 12. Snipers have an interesting hierarchy of upgrades.
-The best configuration for a sniper in the early game is 1-2. For me to explain this, let me explain the upgrades one by one.
-The 1-0 sniper allows you to pop lead bloons. This is important for round 10 and round 12.
-The 1-1 sniper lets it shoot faster. It is a must have upgrade on all snipers.
-The 1-2 sniper lets the sniper see camo bloons. This is the ONLY tower that you start off with that will be able to pop camo lead bloons.
-The 2-2 sniper costs almost $2000 more than the 1-2 sniper, and its only upgrade is a complete ceramic kill. Chances are you will not need the ceramic upgrade if you rush wisely.
Now, if you know your opponent doesn’t have a sniper (or apprentice, later on), you can kill them with camo leads if they only have a 2-2 max on most towers. This is by far the EASIEST way to win in the early stages of the game. Most players, at this stage of the game, do not know how to beat a camo lead rush.
This leads us to the ninja. He is in roughly 40% of higher level decks and can be effective if used right. However, early game does not yield any benefits to carrying him in your deck.
-The 2-2 Ninja is the best upgrade. HOWEVER, 2-1 ninjas can be better than 2-2 ninjas in some situations.
-The 2-x upgrade allows the shurikens to pop more bloons, and is a must have on all ninjas.
-The x-1 upgrade allows the shuriken to target and home in on bloons. There about 3 situations where it is better to have an x-0 ninja, but this will not occur until you have fourth tier upgrades.
-The x-2 upgrade allows the ninja to send bloons backwards along the track. However, there are situations where this upgrade hurts you more than helps.
The spot where the 2-2 ninja is worse than the 2-1 ninja is a regen rush. This is when the bloons will regenerate their layers as the ninja pushes them back along the track, essentially multiplying the opponent’s rush.
Overall, it is a nice tower to have, but only when you upgrade the tower later on.
So, there was the rundown of the starting towers. Based on this advice, my opening deck would be this:
-Ninja
-Sniper Monkey
-Cannon
It is important to note that whatever bonus tower you receive will have all upgrades unlocked, and it is more important that you get a good bonus tower in the early game than the towers you carry here. If you do receive duds (cough cough Glue Gunner/Monkey Village cough cough), you will need to rely on these three towers and look to end the game early with a round 10-13 rush.
2.1 – Unlocking Towers
So you’ve finally made it to the point where you can unlock new towers. As much as you may want to, you should not buy most of the towers that you could possibly buy once you unlock them. Later on, they might be fun to play with, but if you’re starting out you should not buy most. There are a few that you definitely SHOULD buy, so I’ll start with them.
***These are only counting 2-2 max upgrades. I will go over 4-4 in a later section.***
——————————
A must have tower for later on. Starting off with only 2-2 upgrades only, you should NOT use them.
-The 2-0 boomerang can take out large chunks, but only if positions correctly
-The 0-2 boomerang can cheaply take out leads, but will not do much other than that
Pops lead: Yes, with upgrades
Ceramic pops, on a scale of 1-5: 1
MOAB power, on a scale of 1-5: 1
If you happen to receive the boomerang as your bonus tower, take it. It can’t get much better than him.
——————————
A great tower for both beginning and later on.
-The 1-1 buccaneer is the best configuration for money spent
-The 1-0 buccaneer will shoot faster, which can take out some later rushes and will require you to spend less money than buying a new buccaneer, especially for rounds 4-5
-The 0-1 buccaneer is perhaps the best 0-1 tower in the game. It can hold off early bloon eco strategies by itself, and can be effectively spammed for great MOAB popping power.
-The 2-x buccaneer is fine – its just that the range won’t really do much.
-The x-2 buccaneer can spot camo, so it is great to buy on round 12, but not before then.
Pops lead: No
Ceramic pops, on a scale of 1-5: 2
MOAB power, on a scale of 1-5: 4
A note that the Third tier upgrades on this are some of the best, so a bonus tower selection of this pirate would be great.
——————————
The best tower in the whole game. And it doesn’t even pop bloons! This is the best way to get money in the game. It allows you flexibility in the late game to send MOABs without losing your way to get money. It allows you to build up a wad of cash for a rush. It allows you to save money to build a better defense. It allows freedom and happiness in the hearts of players.
-The best configuration is 2-0
-The 1-0 farm gives you 3 bunches of bananas – $180 per round
-The 2-0 farm gives you 7 bunches of bananas per round – $420 per round
-DO NOT BUY THE LEFT SIDE UPGRADES. You should not need them to stay on the ground longer, nor will the $4000 valuable bananas upgrade help you until you get fourth tier farms.
Pops lead: No
Ceramic pops, on a scale of 1-5: 0
MOAB power, on a scale of 1-5: 0
It is important to buy the upgrade before the round starts. If you buy the 2-0 upgrade mid round, you won’t get the four extra bananas that round. You will get the extra 4 bunches the next round, and subsequent rounds after that.
——————————
I thought about keeping him off the list, but decided to put him on here anyways. He provides an alright defensive ability, but you should not be relying on him.
-The best configuration is 2-1
-The 1-0 upgrade allows it to be more accurate – where you’re pointing the mouse is where it will shoot closer
-The 2-0 upgrade allows the gunner to shoot faster, receiving a gigantic bloon popping boost
-The 0-1 upgrade allows the dart to be more powerful, a great boost for beginning dartling gunners
-The 0-2 upgrade lets it pop lead – So you wont need this upgrade until round 10, and even then it would be more preferable to get a cheaper source of lead popping power.
Pops lead: Yes, with upgrades
Ceramic pops, on a scale of 1-5: 2
MOAB power, on a scale of 1-5: 3
This tower is only effective if you plan to use a monkey farmer for bananas – You can’t aim and send out bloon eco, or aim and collect bananas. It just doesn’t work. If you’re just starting out, don’t use it unless you’re willing to pay the 100 medallions to use a farmer.
——————————
The greatest example of a tower that is great for beginning rounds but awful for late game. For you, the beginner, it is a tower you might carry in to a battle, but don’t rely on it to save you.
-The best configuration is 2-1. You should start off with a 0-1, then work your way up the left side.
-The 1-0 and 2-0 upgrades build sentries for you. These are essentially dart monkeys that will pop up in random spots, stay up for about 10 seconds, then disappear. They can help with bloon eco, but will not help a lot once you get past round 8 or so.
-The 0-1 upgrade lets the engineer pop 8 bloons with one nail. This can help in the early game, with natural bloons.
Pops lead: No
Ceramic pops, on a scale of 1-5: 2
MOAB power, on a scale of 1-5: 2
Do not choose this as your bonus tower if you happen to receive it and plan to go late game.The third and fourth tier options on this tower are not good.
——————————
The most debated tower in the game. Some say its one of the best; I say that its just okay. My personal opinion is that its high cost and limited popping ability leaves it to just late game situations.
-The best configuration is 2-2
-The 1-0 upgrade gives the chipper a speed upgrade, but is only slightly noticable.
-The 2-0 upgrade is the best in the chipper’s arsenal at this time. You can now suck in lead and ceramic bloons. This will save you from much hassle later on rounds 10+.
-The 0-1 upgrade gives you a range upgrade. This is not too effective, considering that its a single pop tower instead of a multiple pop tower.
-The 0-2 upgrade gives a secondary speed boost. Combined with the 1-x upgrade, it can easily take out single ceramic bloons.
It is important to note that the late game upgrades on this tower are some of the best, which is why this tower receives so much love. However, most defeats occur between rounds 10 and 18, which leaves the chipper in the wayside. It is also important to note that this tower can only take in one bloon at a time – which means that ceramics, for example, will leak a rainbow, then the other rainbow would leak a zebra, and so on and so forth.
Pops lead: Yes, with upgrades
Ceramic pops, on a scale of 1-5: 4
MOAB power, on a scale of 1-5: 0
——————————
He can be the MVP of some water based maps, and can provide a dart monkey alternative on water maps.
-The best upgrade is 0-2 – However, some cases it could be 2-2.
-The 1-x upgrade allows the dart to pop 3 bloons instead of 1.
-The x-1 upgrade allows the dart to shoot twice as fast – a great upgrade.
-The x-2 upgrade allows the darts to burst into three different darts. Combined with the 1-x upgrade, that turns into 9 bloons popped with 1 dart.
-Notice that I skipped the 2-x upgrade. This upgrade is one of the most confusing in the game. Not only will the sub be able to shoot in its own range, but it will also be able to shoot everywhere a second tower’s range is. For example, if you have a sub near the exit, but a dart monkey at the front of the track, the sub will be able to shoot where the dart monkey can see. As soon as the bloon leaves the dart monkey’s range, the sub can’t shoot at it until it goes into the range of another tower. If the dart monkey in the example had the 2-x upgrade and was able to see camo, the sub can pop the camo bloons in the dart monkey’s range. Once the camo bloon goes out of the dart monkey’s range, the sub by itself won’t be able to see the camo bloon. It needs some other tower that is able to see camo in order for the sub to shoot it. It will not be able to shoot lead.
Pops lead: No
Ceramic pops, on a scale of 1-5: 2
MOAB power, on a scale of 1-5: 3
He has some great third and especially great fourth tier upgrades, so if you get him as a bonus, definitely use him.
2.1.1 – Farmer Types
Quick, easy part that I wanted to put in to the Banana Farm section above but ran out of characters in 2.1 part. There are a few different types of farmers that I want to quickly gloss over for you, so I can refer to them by their two word key instead of explaining throughout the rest of the guide.
- Conservative Farmers – They are players who use the farms, but play towers first or buy just one farm and are more concerned about losing lives than they are farming.
- Aggressive Farmers – They are the players who will continue to farm until they receive pressure. I would fall into that list – the general consensus is to buy your 1-0 farm, then plop down a dart monkey. They fall into the, “As long as you don’t rush me, I’ll buy the second farm and leave myself with no possible way of defending my side.” (How I play – but can really bite me some times)
2.2 – The Other Towers
Now, we get to the towers that you may want to unlock for fun, but not necessarily to win.
This is only for 2-2 max upgrades. 4-4 upgrades will be covered later.
—————————————————————————————————————————–
Ah, the COBRA. The tower that nobody seems to know how to use correctly (Trust me here). The rate I’ve seen is about 20% correct usage. The other 80% don’t use it right. I’ll cover this in a later section.
————————————————————————————————————————–
You might really be wondering at this stage, “How was this guy left off? He’s like the real MVP of all lower levels!” To be completely honest, he is fine for a bit (Up to round 13). Otherwise, once you get past that round, you will not have an advantage in the later rounds.
-The best configuration is 2-2.
-The 1-x is an upgrade that will cause your monkey to have a better magic ball. This really does not help you out as much as you might expect it to do, based on the rap it gets from the youtube community.
-The 2-x is the upgrade most commonly seen before doing any sort of upgrading of income. It shoots lightning, which will strip off 1 layer in most bloons across the track. It is great for early rounds, especially for bloon eco. However, don’t rely on it in later rounds, as it is weak against higher level bloons.
-The x-1 upgrade lets the apprentice shoot a fireball, similar to a cannon blast. It is the ideal upgrade for early game bloon eco.
-The x-2 upgrade lets the apprentice see camo bloons.
Pops lead: Yes
Ceramic pops, on a scale of 1-5: 2
MOAB power, on a scale of 1-5: 2
————————————————————————————————————————–
If you’re looking for a tower to use in Bloons Monkey City, this is it. This is not, however, BMC. Spike Tower just is not good in BTD Battles.
-The best configuration is 2-2
-The 1-x upgrade piles out bigger piles of spikes (5 per bunch to 10 per bunch; for reference, the free spikes have 15 pops)
-The 2-x upgrade allows the spikes to pop lead.
-The x-1 and x-2 upgrade gives the tower a speed burst when shooting out spikes.
Pops lead: Yes, with upgrades
Ceramic pops, on a scale of 1-5: 2
MOAB power, on a scale of 1-5: 3
————————————————————————————————————————–
Nobody. Uses. This. Guy…. Like. At. All.
-The best configuration is 2-2
-The 1-x upgrade lets the glue go through multiple layers of bloons – without the upgrade, the glue would last only on 1 bloon. When popped, it would not be glued any more.
-The 2-x upgrade lets the glue pop bloons. This also lets it pop lead.
-The x-1 upgrade makes the glue last longer on the bloon.
-The x-2 upgrade splatters the glue around, so multiple bloons would get glued with one shot.
Pops lead: Yes, with upgrades
Ceramic pops, on a scale of 1-5: 1
MOAB power, on a scale of 1-5: 0 (Can’t shoot at MOABS)
————————————————————————————————————————–
Its a slow down tower. Only some towers can pop frozen bloons…
- Dart Monkey (With upgrades – 4-x)
- Tack Shooter (With upgrades – 4-x)
- Ninja (With upgrades – x-3)
- Bomb Tower
- Sniper
- Boomerand (With upgrades – x-1)
- Apprentice
- Buccaneer (With upgrades – x-3)
- And others…
-The best upgrade is 2-2
-The 1-x upgrade is a range upgrade
-The 2-x upgrade allows the ice tower to pop bloons – it also freezes them
-The x-1 upgrade permanently slows down bloons.
-The x-2 upgrade Freezes two layers of bloons instead of one
Pops lead: Yes, with upgrades
Ceramic pops, on a scale of 1-5: 1
MOAB power, on a scale of 1-5: 0 (Does not affect)
————————————————————————————————————————–
One of the better towers I left off the list. He can do some serious damage with the third tier upgrades, so keep that in mind when selecting bonus towers.
-The best upgrade is 2-0 (2-2 if you need camo)
-The 1-x upgrade allows the plane to shoot more often
-The 2-x upgrade lets the darts pop 8 bloons each – a massive upgrade (And it also shreds ceramics)
-The x-1 upgrade drops pineapples from the sky – useless, considering most don’t land on the track
-The x-2 upgrade allows the plane to see camos
Pops lead: Yes (Don’t trust on this to pop the leads, though)
Ceramic pops, on a scale of 1-5: 4
MOAB power, on a scale of 1-5: 2
————————————————————————————————————————–
There is no constant aiming, no targeting, only a blast radius anywhere on the screen you tell it to shoot.
-The best upgrade is 2-2
-The 1-x upgrade allows the range of explosions to be confined to a lesser area – letting the bomb hit where you aim more often
-The 2-x upgrade gives a bigger blast area – slightly bigger than the bomb tower’s range
-The x-1 upgrade gives the mortar a speed upgrade
-The x-2 upgrade gives the bloons a constant burning effect – Can be great when combined with a multiple shot tower or an ice tower for taking down grouped bloon rushes (Though I don’t recommend the Mortar/Ice Tower combo.) Also does fine against ceramics.
Pops lead: Yes
Ceramic pops, on a scale of 1-5: 2
MOAB power, on a scale of 1-5: 1
————————————————————————————————————————–
The best tower in the game. Unfortunately, you usually won’t have the time – or the money – to effectively use him.
-The best upgrade is 2-2
-The 1-x upgrade lets the monkey shoot lasers – double the popping power
-The 2-x upgrade lets the monkey shoot plasma blasts – this lets him pop leads
-The x-1 upgrade and x-2 upgrade are simply range upgrades. It is user discretion whether or not this is worth the extra money.
If you are planning to get a temple with the monkey, do not upgrade the range. I will go over this later.
Pops lead: Yes, with upgrades
Ceramic pops, on a scale of 1-5: 2
MOAB power, on a scale of 1-5: 4
————————————————————————————————————————–
The tower that doesn’t attack, except for its fourth tier upgrade. Its main purpose is to support the towers that you have by offering buffs.
-The best upgrade is 2-2
-The 1-x upgrade lets all towers in the village’s radius increase their range by 15%
-The 2-x upgrade gives an attack speed bonus to all towers in the town
-The x-1 upgrade gives each attack +1 pierce – meaning that an unupgraded dart monkey’s shot can pop 2 bloons instead of 1
-The x-2 upgrade gives each tower camo vision. Very expensive form of camo, but if you are carrying a super monkey it may be necessary.
Pops lead: No
Ceramic pops, on a scale of 1-5: 0 (Doesn’t attack)
MOAB power, on a scale of 1-5: 0 (Doesn’t attack)
————————————————————————————————————————–
He’s also in with the ace as the tower I just left off the top list. He’s a fine secondary tower.
-The best upgrade is 2-2
-The 1-x upgrade lets the pilot shoot 4 darts instead of 2 – A double popping upgrade
-The 2-x upgrade lets the pilot follow the bloons around the track. Limitless range
-The x-1 upgrade allows the pilot to move faster
-The x-2 upgrade lets it see camo.
Pops lead: No
Ceramic pops, on a scale of 1-5: 4
MOAB power, on a scale of 1-5: 3
The next section will contain bloons.
3.1 – Basic Bloon Info
BLOONS
Oh, the fearsome enemy. The things that clowns blow up at parties and kids let loose into the atmosphere only for a plane to catch one in its engine and blow up. THAT’S WHY YOU POP THEM.
Anyways, you should already know that you shouldn’t let any bloons leak past your defenses. However, you should know what rushes to employ and when to use them. Here is the basic bloon hierarchy, courtesy of bloons wiki.
Know that when you send bloons, your income will either increase or decrease. This is especially important if you are playing with bloon eco rather than farms or cobras, as sending blimps will lower your income, which may not be the best move. Here is a basic rundown of the bloons you need to worry about:
Round 6 can get a little scary if you are relying on farms against a bloon eco player. You want to only have one dart monkey; depending on the spots, you may need up to 3 to defend the greens.
This is a round 8 rush that can decide the game in some cases. Above all, they are sent in packed and can disrupt your opponent’s farming. We’ll get to rushes later, but remember that yellow bloons are a highly risky way to rush early.
You won’t see these quite as much on round 10 when they become unlocked in groups, but you’ll see them in round 4 when they become unlocked as single sent bloons. This is a great way to disrupt a farmer.
Black is immune to bombs, white immune to freezing, zebra immune to both. Zebras can be a great way to rush cheaply, but can be taken out if your opponent is using a deck built for the round 13 takedown.
This really is the most overrated bloon in the entire game. When they become unlocked as groups on round 13, it costs $1200 per 3 regrow rainbows. A good rush of 15 would cost $6000. You could easily spend that money elsewhere.
The bloon that is the bane of existence in some players. Reality is that sometimes you won’t be paying attention with what your defense is capable of and you can slip a few ceramics past your opponent while they’re not paying attention. A sneaky, low cost rush.
I really prefer to not send MOABS by themselves. I know that round 17 MOABS are very common in upper levels, but your opponent probably has a defense (Or a strategy) ready for a single MOAB to appear.
The big red machine. Holds 4 MOABS, which is the overwhelming factor that you’ll need in later rounds. Moves fairly slow, but not slow enough that you can get easily counterattacked. The best late game attacker.
I highly recommend NOT using this as your late game rush. Moves waaaay too slow to be effective, you can easily be countered in the time it takes for it to slowly meander its way down the track. If you have a ZOMG on your side, don’t pop it. Instead, use the money to counterattack your opponent. Chances are they’ll not have any serious BFB poppers unless you’ve let them get enough money to fund it.
3.2 – Early Game Bloon Rushes
Now we finally get in to a part of the guide which deals with game play. I’ll start off by saying that it is very hard to kill people with most of these rushes. The point of these rushes is to slowly chip away at your opponent’s health. That being said, there comes a point where you have to throw all your chips into the pot and go all in on a rush. I’ll indicate which rushes to go all in with and which to chip away with.
I’m counting early game as up to Round 12. Anything Round 12 and on will be covered in the next section.
—————————-
You’ll start to notice a trend as I go on with these early rushes – they are meant to aggravate the opposing player and cause them to go off of their intended strategy.
In no way, shape, or form will these red bloons ever kill your opponent. Ever.
Before you look to employ this tactic, make sure that your opponent has little money left and just employed a second banana farm with no defense probability. This should only be used on rounds 2-3. To a conservative farmer, this will do nothing – chances are they have some form of popping power set up already. To an aggressive farmer, however, these can take a huuuge chunk of lives. This sets you up nice and easy for the second rush ahead…
—————————-
Quite possibly the most annoying early game rush, the pink bloons pretty much always to damage to your opponent. It takes two dart monkeys teaming up to fully take down pink bloons – if your opponent only has a single tower that doesn’t have auto track on their projectiles (Looking at you, Ninja), it can take them off their game plan. Every top tier player uses these to some point during their games – the pinks can cause your opponent to over commit to defense and leave you with a monetary advantage.
—————————-
Really should not be on here – but could cause some panic in the right situations. Very rare to use this effectively.
**Notice how I have not put on the black bloons – a x-3 dart monkey takes out blacks easier than it does single pinks, due to its reload(?) speed***
—————————-
The ultimate do or die rush (Besides regrow rainbows). If you are 110% certain that your opponent will not be able to react on time, and they have a limited defense (e.g. two x-3 dart monkeys), this kills your opponent. The only problem is, it costs a lot of money in the early game. Money that, if your opponent manages to survive your rush, almost guarantees your departure from the arena as a loser. For lower level arenas with lower level players, they can get flustered easily into not selling their farms.
If you get hit with this rush, quickly sell your farms and use whatever your best grouped bloon taker-outer is. Whether it be 3-x boomerang, 3-x/4-x dart monkey, even spam x-3 dart monkeys. After the rush is over, you’ll be able to sell your rush stoppers and invest that back in to farms. Chances are your opponent just spent $1000 on a rush that failed – which gives you roughly a $400 dollar advantage after you sell, buy, and resell your farms and tower(s).
—————————-
Want to drive your opponent crazy? Use the lead bloon! Problem with lead bloons is that they need to be popped by certain towers – but your opponent always has a tower that can pop leads. The basic rush here is a simple Regen Lead. Only one. This forces your opponent to put down a lead popping tower – and throws them off track just a bit.
Wait, wait, wait… why regen?
Regen is added on there on the oft chance that your opponent is stupid enough to put their lead popping tower far enough away from their main towers so that the lead could grow back on, causing four lead bloons and double the trouble. I’ve seen it happen to the best players before – so it could easily work for you.
***Pink bloons on round 10 generally are not such a good rush – it is faster and stronger than yellow, but your opponent has an extra two rounds of money and pink bloons come out in less numbers – where you might send out (In a $450 Rush) 24 Yellow bloons, in a pink rush you’d send out 15.**
3.3 – Late Game Rushes
This continues the rushes section, and will contain rushes past Round 12.
—————————-
Especially in the lower arenas, if you see that your opponent has no camo, this is very deadly. Gives your opponent little to no time to react, and you can’t easily sell farms AND put up towers on the shorter maps in the time it takes for the pinks to fully cross the course. You should NOT sell your farms in order to fund this – as it should take up roughly $1000. It’s good to note that this is a KILL rush, not a hassle rush. If you employ this, you must kill your opponent. You’d spend way to much money to not kill them.
—————————-
Works for lower arenas, and it can also bring some pain if your opponent does not have towers suited for them. The most common towers all have a huge upgrade cost to hit camo leads. Don’t fully invest in this; send only 1. Since round 13 is beginning, you’ll want to free up your send queue.
—————————-
By far the best rush in the game. I have only had about 3 people out of 100 defend the rush. It’s that good. Now listen – it’s very, very hard to execute this rush, so pay attention:
Click on the zebra space and spam like you would bloon eco.
[/sarc]
Literally, just spam the zebras. They cost $200 for 3 bloons, and if you take up roughly $2000, that’s 30 zebras on their screen. The only towers (reasonable – ones that would be in your deck) that can defend this are dart monkey, boomerang, and sub. You can add camo and triple the price, and it still costs less than normal grouped rainbows.
I’ll talk about how to defend this rush later.
—————————-
The most overrated rush in the game. Costs at least $1000 for 3 bloons (Which gives you 15 zebras, in return), and can be defended at roughly the same towers as a zebra rush. The only real difference is tower placements – Subs would leave regrow blues, some glaive lords, if placed bad, would leave more layers on. Overall, much too pricy to be effective.
—————————-
Can be deadly if your opponent is relying on a single juggernaut. Regrow leads can regrow before a second juggernaut spike gets to the bunch, and multiplies everything there. Can be an absolute pain for juggernaut users. Do not rely on them as a killer, though.
—————————-
If your opponent has a sub or a glaive lord, their one weakness is the ceramic bloon. If you can get a camgrow ceramic on either one, it can send your opponent packing. This is the bloon I get defeated the most on – they blend in with the environment and are absolutely deadly to multi-poppers.
—————————-
Can be sent in as a lone ranger, and if your opponent has no real MOAB popping power, it can sneak through. It moves the same speed as a red bloon and takes 200 hits to pop the blimp layer. It takes 617 lives (Which can be eaten – I’ll explain later). I don’t like sending in a lone MOAB, but you can catch your opponent by surprise at points.
—————————-
My personal favorite. Contains 4 MOABs, 3164 Lives, 700 Hits to pop. The sheer 700 hits, plus the extra hits needed for the MOABs make it a tough pop around Round 20. The rush you should be using if the zebras and ceramics do not work.
—————————-
4 BFBs, 16 MOABs, $7500 for one. Moves much too slow for my liking, and the large amount invested makes you very vulnerable for counterattack. I would recomend fast cooldown BFB before the ZOMG.
4.0 – Tower Spotlights
I’ll start with a full explanation of most towers, where to use them, how to use them, and in what places to use them.
This is for balance change 4.1. All balance changes later will not be accounted unless otherwise noted.
Under Construction – Unlocking Towers, Rush Strategies, Advanced Strategies
This page is currently being written and will be updated soon. However, I will give you these bits of knowledge that the upper echelon of the community knows.
-Don’t use the apprentice. Sure, he can quickly pop camo leads and take care of early rounds, but snipers are much better suited for this purpose.
-Don’t try regen rainbow rushes. They are too expensive and can be easily countered with the right towers.