Car Mechanic Simulator 2015 Guide

Auto Repair Manual Class for Car Mechanic Simulator 2015 for Car Mechanic Simulator 2015

Auto Repair Manual Class for Car Mechanic Simulator 2015


This guide is not a cheat sheet. But will give you insight on what is going in the game as well as Video Tutorials…


Certain Simulator games are made to simulate real world scenarios so a player can have a shot of what it MIGHT be like. Car Mechanic 2015 Simulator is just that, A simple simulator game. Its not a training simulator. There is no such thing as a computer mechanic training simulator. A Mechanic training simulators is REAL WORLD in class, hands on training due to a Technical Automotive Institute. You will need to look that up for locations of your area. In this GAME, here you will get a chance to see what it is LIKE, to have to do the fallowing…..

-Run your own repair shop the way YOU want and making money…

-Do Diagnostics on cars to find out what doesn’t work and fix it….

-A chance to go to the Auction to buy cars, fix em up and sell them off…

-With XP points you can unlock items to get, or add-ons to build to the shop…

-As you progress in the game you just may learn a few simple things about cars altogether. But nothing that gets you a degree in them.

-The game car problems are pretty much the same as Real world car problems, and the diagnostics are just about the same as the real world diagnostics

-Understand, This game here is in unlock mode free play since your made your first profile, so there is no need to rush. There are no levels here, so were you going?

>About the guide

NOTE: Students of the “Auto Repair Manual Class for Car Mechanic Simulator 2014” you may want to go over this guide real quick anyway to see what has been added since the old game. But we already know your ahead of the game already but I leave that up to you. There are video Tutorials you may want to check out, mainly if you haven’t got the game yet.. You can see what to expect..

(Continuing with the new class..)

Ok, you’re looking at the car that needs to be fixed, you got to ask yourself, What are you? Are you a PARTS CHANGER? OR a MECHANIC?

Parts changer has to always be told what is wrong and told what to change. In the real world mechanic garage just so you know, they are the first one’s to be fired.

A Mechanic Diagnose the problem and then fixes it. In the real world mechanic garage so you know, they move up and become the best. Some even make it as pit crew mechanics for Auto Racing teams or start their own business. Others either stay in a shop till they retire, move up in the shop, become part of a auto manufacture advisory team.

Bad mechanics don’t get far and end up at the end of the line and most talked about. Do not beat yourself up over this. It is just a game still.

*Some of you are thinking, if this is a game, Why am I stating this then. because some of you are Interested in this game for the ideal of something leaning towards automotive, and are considering this as a living…..

This guide will explain Automotive in REGARDING to the GAME CARS only. Explanation of the parts and what they do and why they tend to go bad, give tips, and ideals to use…..kind of like a auto repair manual class for the game.

-Contrary to other beliefs, there are no levels, this isn’t a level style game, it never was in the 2014 game, and it is still not in the 2015 game. It’s just, next job to perform. There is no rush, so were you going? Rushing a job is the easiest way to over look the real problems. Do not feel alone, you be surprised of how real that really is in the real world of Mechanics.

-This game will use problems that are found in the real auto Mechanic world. It will not teach the how to, but one thing is for sure, you will become familiar with the basics and what the parts are to a extent. There is NO claims by the developers any were, advertising this as a training simulator on auto repair. There is no such things as a training simulator for Auto Mechanics..

-As a mechanic you have to check test and solve the problem with a car. It is what real life mechanics do. They do not wave a wand and it’s all good. It has never been that way. Complaining and moaning about it will not get the job done.

-Right off the back, up front, this Guide WILL NOT give you answers to any work order repairs at all. Just like the 2014 Class guide, it is not a cheat sheet. It never was intended to be a cheat sheet, it has always been intended to TEACH YOU, so you can’t get stuck, or lost, or unable to finish the job, and the ability to help others who may need help, and no matter what Red Dot throws at you in the game as in a update to make you stuck by having a bad part that doesn’t show up the work order , you will always be ahead so you can’t get stuck. That way the day comes and you are stuck, it usually turns out to be a bug instead of the way you do your job. So when Red Dot was updating their 2014 game with new content, others would be stuck because there were no cheat sheets for the content, guess who was moving with out a hitch…the 2014 class…

So It will explain the game parts and real world reasons for why parts fail. Understanding this, is very important I think, it just might help you to diagnose were the problem is and what to look for, and get better at it. Because the real Beauty of this Game is, it is unlocked in free play at start, so any vehicle that comes through, the conditions are random. Whether it is customer or a car from the auction, so a cheat sheet is not Possible. (Nice touch I think…)

For Example….

*Example: A customer brings in a car. Its noisy while driving and gets louder when turning. Already you know you need to test drive it, so you do, get the car back and do a inspection. You see what is yellow and what is green with one red axle. So you change the part and the work order shows it is not done.

(changing normal wear and tare parts for nothing is wasted money on your part, this has NEVER changed since CMS2014..)
So your over budget with a one time loan, changing all the yellow parts such as tires, fuel pumps, filters. And the car will not be released. So you begin taking off all the green parts to replace with new parts and a outrageous cost and border line bankrupt to discover that when you went to replace the green gearbox, a red clutch release bearing, a orange clutch presser plate and a red clutch friction plate can be seen.

You change those to find out NOW the car can be released. Why is that? Because noise during turning dose indicate possible bad CVC joints, but when the wheels are straight the drive axles bad CVC joints get quieter. Why, because it is not under the same stress load straight as in turning. How ever the customer says its noisy going down the road and gets louder when turning. Say nothing about it being quiet down the road. Bad clutch bearings make noise when the clutch is used besides the bad clutch tending to slip. The customer never stated the duration of the noise or the chatter from the slipping clutch, because the customer dosn’t know what has failed, but the noise is made while driving. All the game cars uses a gear box, not a automatic transmission. When a automatic trans fails, it just quits and the car sits there like in neutral all the time, not moving while in gear.

So understanding how a drive train can have failing parts would have saved you all sorts of wasted money and sent the car on its way out the way door earlier.


Theses are going to be some terms used in this guide and are real world terms the game reflects well…

>No start; The engine does not run at all

>Noise; basically that…

>combustion; fire in a engine cylinder as the result of a power stroke after the compression stroke on a engine.

*to clarify this, these engines are 4 stroke engines;

*1 Intake ( fuel and air mixture being sucked in from the intake valve or air sucked in and fuel being sprayed in by injector, the piston is moving down)

*2 compression ( fuel and air mixture is being squeezed tight. The valves are closed, the piston is going up )

*3 Power ( the spark plug fires creating a explosion in the cylinder known as combustion, piston is pushed down with great force )

*4 Exhaust ( the burnt fuel and air mixture is in form of carbon dioxide smoke and is pushed out the cylinder through the exhaust valve).

*This cycle repeats its self again and again at each RPM ( Revolutions Per Minute ).

>Fuel delivery system; for this game it is, fuel rails, carburetor, fuel filter and fuel pump.

>Carburetor; A device in which fuel is delivered from by means of the intake vacuum.

>Fuel Rail; A fuel delivery system that is common for two type of fuel injections. one is the MPI and the other is the DI. For this game, MPI is Multi Port Injection, and Di is Direct Injection.

>Ignition system; spark plug wires, ignition module, spark Plugs, and yes the game has
Distributor, Cap and Rotor for this….

>V8 cylinder engine; shaped like a V with 4 cylinders per side. Yes, they are here…

>6 cylinder engine; straight inline engine with only 6 cylinders.

>4 cylinder engine; a straight inline engine with only 4 cylinders.

>2 cylinder engine; inline dual cylinder air cooled engine. Yes they are here too…

>Cylinder head; what seals the cylinders on the Engine block so compression in the cylinder is possible. Spark Plugs are found here. This game uses some engines with over head cams so the will be found here too…

>Engine block; The power plant of the car so it can run. The game uses three types, Inline 4 cylinder, V-8 cylinder, and 2 cylinder bottom end as a block…yes one of those…

>Suspension system; what makes the car go bounce. Springs, bushings, suspension arms, shock absorber.

>Air flow system; What filters air to be clean and directed to the intake manifold to be dispersed to the engine cylinders to mix with the gas for combustion. Air box, air filter, air filter assembly (for carburetor).

>Steering system; all parts involved with steering the car right and left. Tie rods, steering rack, end links and sway bars for body roll control when cornering in turns.

>Pivoting parts; Parts that pivot by means of a ball style joints for movement. These are usually not fixable parts and can only be replaced.

>Drive train; Parts that are used for the vehicle to move. Gear box, axles, clutch plate friction, clutch pressure plate and clutch release bearing, cross and roller drive shaft, differential, drive shaft CVC joint, and fly wheel.

>Exhaust system; Parts used to channel the exhaust smoke away as a result of burned fuel from the engine cylinder from firing. Exhaust manifold, exhaust pipes, mufflers, catalytic converter.

>Sensor; A device used for detecting conditions of what ever it is design for. The Converter uses a read out sensor.

>Charging system; Alternator and battery that is responsible for a power source for the car electrically.

>Budget; What you can afford and what you can’t, keeping level without busting the bank.

>Work location; any spot on the car in which you can gain access to car parts to be worked on.

>Toggle; pressing a key.

>Breaking system; Used to stop the car. Brake pads, Brake discs, Brake calipers, Brake shoes, Brake Drum and wheel cylinder…

>Play; anything that is moving or shifting that is not designed to be moving or shifting, Or moving loosly.

>Inspection/ Examine; to look at or examine.

>Oil filter; A device that filters dirt particles that end up in the engine oil due to normal internal conditions so the oil is clean as it is resent back to lubricate bearings, shafts, rods, lifters, pistons inside of the engine block.

>Diagnose; to find out why something is not right, working right, also known as trouble shooting.

>Work/ Repair order; Tells you a about the job to be preformed.

>ECM; The Engine Control Module takes readings from sensor that deal with running the engine so it can adjust ( compensate ) as needed for riching up fuel mixture or leaning up fuel mixture for needed mixtures with the air, pending on the engines need for driving conditions. On the new cars it is programmable.

>Miles/hours; Age time marker of wearing down parts, tires, as well as the vehicle is based on miles. High miles on a car has more worn parts were less miles has a chance of less worn parts. Some countries do not fallow “miles” as the time line but fallow “hours” the vehicle is used instead. So this guide will use both because I am taking in consideration that most of my students are not going to be completely state side.

>Metal Fatigue; A result of the metal being compressed and expanded repeatedly, or bent repeatedly in different directions. A safe sample of this would be, take a paper clip, straighten it out, then bend at the center back and forth, it will heat up, and the metal fatigue will set in, causing the clip to snap at the bend point.

>chassis; entire suspension, drive train, and engine, the running gear on the car.


-Off the back I am going to remind you right here and now, this game is about YOU and the way YOU want to run a shop. Not about what this or that user says what they think you should do. Some users are so obsessed with auction cars being 100% new, that they explain it as the only choice. So lets say you take that as what to live by what is right in the game. So you get auction cars, and for get the customer cars, you began to build them new.

And then after doing it over that way for a few times, you began to either get BOARD, or it becomes a MISERABLE burden to you. Because you just discovered that you rather just do what you need to get rid of the car, and deal with auctions once in a while and worry about the customer cars more so. That is because what works for the other guy, is not working for you. The only reason he feels his way is the main correct way is because he dose it like that, and fails to understand that people are different, what works for one, dose not for another. So when someone is telling you something on the best way to do something, REMEMBER, it is their suggestion, or opinion. And it may work for you, then again maybe not work for you. So remember how too’s are only ideals when regarding to make something you already can do, better. Should be taken as a consideration you may want to try or pass, not live by in the game..It is about running your shop your way and how you see fit. So you do what is best for you. And consider any opinion even mine. . Have fun in this game, not a ulcer. Save the ulcer for the real world job..

-You have a work order, but not like the old ones from CMS 2014. You must take a phone call for orders now. You can choose to decline or accept the call as you see fit. If you are juggling 3 cars in the bay you do not need to decline calls until the cars are gone and ready to get more.
You get 4 more calls, they can wait, they are not going any were. If you decline them then you may just stay at the phone, because for every car gone, another call will come in.

*After your job and the car can be released, it’s a good ideal to sell off what you don’t need. If you don’t, the inventory will get cluttered. If you wish to keep some for that poor customer that has no money and may need it, Check its color state or percentage rating and see if its worth the effort. Anything orange is not worth keeping. How ever, I have found it just to sell off the stuff and start new with another car, that call is yours..

-XP points work like this, to get better or upgrade your shop, all you need is XP points. 1,000 XP points gives you a 1 point upgrade credit towards yourself and tools or the shop. You get increased XP points by every part you remove and re-install.

-Add-on/Builds are available in the game. You can upgrade yourself some place from the tool box, or have a addition build to the shop or fix up the shop. Such as a paint room, or test path room, or parking garage, that choice is yours. Once you get the XP amount to unlock the add-on, then you can get it built. Just watch how much money you have, because if you only have enough to build it, but no money for the work in the shop, you be taking it out of that loan or starting a new game. So just because it is $5,000 and you have $5,500. You may want to consider $3,000 extra or more to fall back on. For me it is a extra $5,00 bare min.

-Auctions are the main attraction in the game, you basically buy a car, restore it and sell it off. And then get another. In order to get into the auctions, you need the parking garage add-on. Then you can go to the auctions. The Parking garage is for your auction cars, so they will be the only ones stored there.

-Those from the 2014 game altogether, the Spectre from 2014 is in this game too, and so far from what I have seen, the only car from 2014, thought I tell you that.

-Color codes and percentage have not changed and so is others confusing this altogether. The 2014 class, you already know how this works, and it has not changed, it is the same as it has been in CMS 2014

*Green Parts are NEW condition or broke-in new condition. So these parts have no miles/hours or low miles/hours on them

*Yellow Parts are NORMAL wear and tare condition. So they have some miles/hours on them. And still good to go with out concern

*Orange Parts are badly worn parts that will fail/go bad. They have lots of miles/hours on them and in real bad shape, they are still holding out, but will finally fail/go bad.

*Red Parts are bad parts that failed due to defect or high miles/hours. You can get a new car with low miles/hours and have a part fail right out of the gate because it is defective. Something went wrong, maybe not pressed enough, may had been over pressed, may have been over looked, may have been dropped from a high spot. Or slammed down during count and packing, or pressed to shape wrong, what ever it takes to make a new part defective. It is what it is, there is no going around that. All the complaints will never change it..

It’s like looking at the part for real, grabbing and shaking it to see if it is loose, crack, or bent. If it dose nothing and still shows condition unknown, it is NOT a game glitch. You need to REMOVE it, and check your inventory to see it’s condition. This is also correct in a real mechanic world.

*If you have on the work order to examine, you MUST examine, once you do, the game will flag that as been examine. Some player get stuck because they didn’t examine a part. So the game didn’t flag it examined. It may seem stupid but in a real garage it says examine and you don’t and send the car out. And that item fails you would have one mad customer on your hands because they paid you for services YOU failed to render. Because if you did you would have wrote down its condition on the work order so the customer would know. Then it is the customers problem.

*Remember, If there is no condition build on the unknown condition part, then YOU HAVE TO TAKE IT OFF, once you do, you can look in your inventory and its condition will show up. The game will flag it examined and you can re-install it and move on in your life… The game dose now use a message that tells you if a part needs to be taken off, or to get to, in order to examine.

For the 2014 class, there are no grey parts like before were they are none removable. All parts on the Vehicle can be re-moved. and I mean EVERYTHING, including the gas tank. You can literally strip it down to the body shell..

To remove parts you need to see what to take off, if you can’t, then LOOK AROUND and SEE, Because all parts in this game come off. If the part you select is yellowed out lined with red solid parts on or near it, they must come off first before the object can be removed. When it is green outlined then it can be removed. Here below we can see the intake manifold can not be removed because the throttle body and manifold fuel injector Rail have to come off first. In the next pic the throttle body can just be removed.

*Percentages are not important enough in this game to be complicate. They were never that important in CMS 2014 and that has not changed here. So when dose Percentages matter? When your roll playing a thought, “should I use the yellow normal wear and tare brake parts/tires at 70% in the front or the 55%?”, something like this…and that is it.

>Work locations

-On the car it self there are 8 different work locations, 1 at each tire, 3 under the car ( open-> 1 front, (exhaust) middle, and 1 back), and 1 at the engine compartment.

-Mobile Oil drain catch basin. This lets you roll play a oil change job by moving it under the engine to drain oil. So try not to dump 4 quarts worth on the floor. Realistically it would have to be a ASP clean up with oil dry material and sweeping it up, before you can proceed. In the Game Just continues on, how ever you will get charged for the clean up! After the Mobile Oil drain catch basin is set, you need to get out of it by Esc key for me, and go into the under engine work location and find the drain plug on the oil pan. Real style type Oil Filters are now available for the engines, you get them from below, mounted on the block, nere the oil pan.

-Computer desk top, Used to order New Car parts, Wheels, Body parts, Maluch Parts, and 1 time bank loan. This also goes for the computer style note book called a tablet. The advantage of the tablet is you can get your parts at location of the job, instead of the long walk back to the desktop.

-Lift and lift controls. Used to raise and lower the car lift. Your shop no longer uses the one Scissor lift style anymore. instead you have two, dual post hydraulic lifts.

-Paint Shop, cars can get factory painted or custom here. Requires to be up a certain XP amount in order to unlock it for a build shop add-on.

-Work bench, lets you rebuild parts that can be rebuilt. Cheaper charge than New.

-Path Tester, the brake and shake room. For Brakes, it uses rollers to turn the wheels so you can apply the brakes to force a slow down, in which the room computer determines the roller slow down factor vs time and complete stop. The shaker is used to test the bounce of the suspension by means of the amount of feed back to the room computer system during the shake. So Remember, this is not a test all, you STILL need to go on a road test. Requires to be up a certain XP amount in order to unlock it for a build shop add-on.

-Parking Garage, Auction cars that are bought by you will be found here. Requires to be up a certain XP amount in order to unlock it for a build shop add-on.

-Function of assemble, disassemble, and inspection mode section is no longer applied here. Instead it is by key selection from 1 to 3. When in either of these modes you conduct your task by right clicking hold to activate. A small green circle will build up and then activate what needs to be done, install, remove, or examine. Once you get your XP points up, you will be able to get Diagnostics tools. So when you are in key 3 for examine, you then can use the F1, F2, or F3 for the tools you were able to get.

>Diagnostics section

Diagnostics is trouble shooting problems. In the real world, some customers have an ideal what might be wrong. Some feel that since they add a little washer fluid and some radiator fluid, all of a sudden they think they know more about a car design than the guys who made it much less you. And others truthfully have no ideal what could be wrong, They are still trying to comprehend the gas nozzle at the pumps… Some may say its from here and you find it there.

The game provides tools for you to use. The tools reflect the real world Mechanic’s tools and what they do to solve problems. It is all about..“ the customer brought you a tow in because it is a no start, fix it Mr. Mechanic!”. The Diagnostics tools and things to help you to trouble shoot are the fallowing…

-OBD scanner, scans systems that have sensors that report problems.

-Compression gauge, this is used for testing compression in a cylinder, When a piston is at top dead center, That cylinder is at its maximum compression. So if it shows 120 psi and it is Suppose to be at 180 psi with a rule of thumb of 170 psi to be consider normal wear and tare. Then some place there is compression loss. For the game it test the internal engine parts.

-Electricle meter, test normal electrical systems on the car.

-Test track. You drive the car on it putting it through road test conditions for the way the car handles. Anything involved with steering system and braking system and handling will show up automatically in their condition colors in inspection mode.

*Keep in mind, it is a TEST track, NOT a TIME TRIAL track, NOT a STUNT track, this is NOT a race game. You are testing the road conditions of a customer’s car in a controlled environment, without traffic impeding your job. Your testing property that is not yours to destroy, so do not be smacking it and crashing it. Get a cheap auction car and beat on that… And why am I mentioning this? Because someone in the CMS 2014 was having issues getting the car released and screaming about bugs, because he was beating it and hitting it on the test track and the game was telling him it was in worst condition than when it came..

-Test Path. A advance testing unit for testing the brakes and bounces the car to test the suspension system, better than the test track. Once this is done, all parts will show up automatically in their condition colors in inspection mode as well as their percentages.

*Certain things like the steering rack, sway bar may not show up or the drive axles, you may STILL need to do a test drive. It’s not a glitch, can’t stress test the turning and drive train on a unit that rolls the wheels for the brakes and you roll forward to be bounced as it shakes.
Fun times…

>Oil Checking section

-Before you start anything on the car, it is good practice to check the oil FIRST whether it is on the work order or not. It’s the dipstick with the yellow ring.

-Low oil (as in under min/barley any on the tip of the stick ) or no oil will cause engine damage. And yeah, real life customers have brought cars in like that asking why the engine is knocking. Best way to throw rods out the side of the engine block….

-Don’t pour the oil until it comes bubbling out at the top over the valve cover. On a real engine you run into the risk of hydro-lock. Because you can’t compress a liquid, also oil would be leaking out the dipstick tube and burning out the exhaust destroying the catalytic converter and be leaking every wear, from being blown through PCV lines, destroying air filters and sensors, to leaking all over the engine because the valve cover and oil pan gaskets are made to retain, not hold oil.

A un-needed high costly out of your pocket repair mess. And you would not be paid for fixing damages you made. To do so could land you in a law suit in court. So instead of finding yourself draining out the oil to do it again, just pour a estimate small amount , and recheck the oil level on the dip stick again, continue until the amount is correct. Do not exceed max. A fill to max level is normal in the states. But for the game in between Max and Min will be fine. Eventually you will get good enough that it will take less time because your estimate pour time will get better. Yeah it’s a game, yeah the game doesn’t penalize you for it, but why start a bad practice to begin with. It is how it is done on a real car…Besides, what if a update came available that prevents you from releasing the car or test drive it when its over filled? You would already be ready for that.

If the oil is black, give it a quick change before taking anywhere. And don’t forget the oil filter, That is what you do anyway in a shop. Maybe a game, but it is a very real life task done the same way. Here is the reasoning, if you drain dirty oil it makes no sense to filter the clean oil in a dirty filter, just like it makes no sense to change the filter and not the oil, why would you want to filter dirty oil through a clean filter. If you change them, both, then your done with it for the next few 100 miles/hours altogether.

*Why check the oil? If your working in your auto shop, and you take the customer car for a test run, and the engine burns up or seizes, it would be your fault, because your the mechanic, so you know better than the customer, you will be responsible for that car. So the Bull part is really your disregard for intrusted property by a customer that is relying on you for the help. So it would be best to do so as a shop practice when you get a car in. Think about it, you get a car with dirty oil, that is a extra job then. Because dirty oil is damaging to the internal parts with in the engine block. You have parts moving faster than the blink of the eye and some well over 1000 RPMs creating heat. The hotter, the more wear and tear. The dirtier the oil, the faster the engine wears down. When its black in color, its more friction base sludge than a proper lubricant. Dirty oil can cause improper worn or broken parts in the engine. Low or next to no oil will destroy a engine in seconds. It may not be seem like it, until you hear a slight knocking noise and some smoke. There goes your pocket money. One time loan anyone?


(This is the straight forward, none obsessed, version, there is no right or wrong way)

-This game has an ability were you can buy a car, fix it up, or restore it and sell it or collect it.

*You will need to have the parking garage to keep your cars, so you will need the XP points to unlock the build add-on.

*Keep in mind your budget, means watch how much you spend, when the bids are clicking fast, time it for them to slow down a bit.

*Buy what you can afford. Or you will be stuck with using that one time loan..

*There is NO RIGHT WAY or WRONG WAY on restore, You can do what ever YOU WANT with YOUR AUCTION CAR. No matter if you buy all new parts, buy new and restore new, cut corners, or do what ever it takes to get rid of it, As long as it has wheels and oil in the engine, you can even sell it off as scrap, with money lost out of course.

-Now for those who are obsessed with this, if you really want to know how to track your money forget what everyone else says, I am telling you. I delt with this in my life time. And this game is practically on the mark with this. If it REALLY MATTERS what your banking, this is the real right way to do this only one part.

*First you need to know what the value of that car is, Some of these cars values end up being the base of their condition. Each vehicle rolls through in different conditions, and not one is the same. I got one Spectra at 40,000 sold it for 80,000 and got another at 31,000, still impounded by me pending on this guide. And the one for 31 is nicer than the one for 40. Think about that. Now did I make money? If I look at the 40 verses the 80, I say yes. But what if during the restore I spent + 30,000, so really I spent 70,000 total in sales and parts. Then I sold it off for 80. I subtract that from 70, and I only made 10,000. So I spent, got my money back (known as cycling money around) and profit 10 thousand. So was that a good bank? Well if your practically obsessed with this feature, maybe, but most likely not.

That is what you have to do if you want to really know what is going on, if you really want to know if your getting ripped off or banking. I do not know how reliable the value information is, but I am sure someplace there is a make shift blue book on it. There are those who live here, so they would know.

*Now someone dose have a parts list up some were with all parts name and price. But your still going to need a pen and paper if your going to fallow it through. The advantage is you can write the part name, and worry about the price latter.

*Then when all done, total your parts cost and add it to the buy cost, and then subtract that from the sale. And that will be your profit. It shouldn’t be confusing, because this is how it is done. I know this for a fact because I worked for some real cheap bosses who would complain about the auctions. I saw a sales man from a main dealer complain about a scratch verses what he paid for at the auction. A sales man who works at a main dealer, complaining for a cheaper deal over a small scratch on a used car with some miles/hours on it. Not some place like “junkers used cars”.

*There are plenty of people here that are obsessed with this they may be able to direct you to the values of the car. I am sorry, I am not obsessed with it, I go, get a car done, get rid of it, return back to my customers..


So the question is, was it worth the bother for you. Now if the investment was more and your profit was less, then you are losing money.

*When you at the auction, try not to start bidding yet, look at the car and price and your own money your willing to spend vs the extra were you can fall back on. Let the AI bids take place, because they are going to get it going like animals, like at any other auction, don’t race the bid, see were it is going. I let the bidding slow down and time almost roll out and then bid, by this time the AI bid is coming to a stop, If I am willing to take the car at 10,000. And that AI bid pushes it one more dollar, I passed on it. And wait to see what else is there..

*If there is all high dollar cars, and you don’t have all that, then leave and go back another time, or just return. Just because you were there it doesn’t mean you have to “BUY IT TILL YOUR BROKE!”. Once you get a car, Make sure you have enough for the build, if not, leave it in the garage and take some jobs. The build can wait till your ready. Its not going any were.

*A little fixing on the auction car, brings in little money.

*Half and half on the auction car, brings in half the money.

*Fully restored 100% on the auction car, brings in the highest dollar.

*Me, I just do as I see fit, I have sent off a car for scrap just because I can. I have restored cars by making them normal wear and tare condition, buying new only if I have to, but I restored cars to 100%, but those are the “ME” cars…

How you do it is all on you………..

>Game Auto Fundamentals Over Veiw

-This shows a list of parts in the game. But also added in, is their real world function of what they do, and why they go bad. Understanding this you will be surprised how your game trouble shooting skill will go up. Customer will be saying a noise is coming from the engine compartment and he doesn’t know what it is, and when you go to test and inspect it. You be thinking to yourself, maybe this or that. And find yourself on the money or close to.

*Remember, this information maybe real world information, but it is for helping you dealing with the in game cars. So do not be running to you mom or dad’s cars or your own car and start doing things. Yeah they give you a ideal, but for the game, what I place here is for that purpose only. If you want to take it to the next level, go to your local library and request for books related to auto repair. You be surprised what you may find. Who knows, you may learn a few things and be complaining on the forms, the game is too easy and needs to be more challenging instead of how your lost or how hard it is. This would be a plus.

>Crossmembers and Suspensions

>Crossmember is a support item, whether it is a crossmember for a transmission, or something else. For the game it is the sub frames and or engine cradles found on uni-body cars. They are known here as Crossmembers. The Crossmembers whether front or back uses four bushings each. Many complain of not being able to find the bushing, try looking here. Because there is no real reason to not find it, its like re-living that old, “can’t find the fuel filter or fuel pump” in the 2014 game, were there be this huge list of the same complaint. Lets not be lazy here…

When they go bad they usually just rust, unless the driver hit the crossmember on something like a high parking block, or it got cracked because the bushings are bad. One key factor that they are bad is a knocking noise coming from the floor when going over bumps can sound like it is coming from the engine compartment, or outside the car, uni-body cars will feel a shift in the body when turning, it will be more noticeable in the rear. If the bushing are real bad the crossmember will tweek against the body, there is a risk of cracking the body due to metal fatigue.

>Bushings. You have bushings that go bad. Bushings are tight fitted to allow limited slip of movement under pressure. They eventually become loose and the rubber becomes dry rotted and brittle and began cracking. This will cause what is known as “play” This is were the object it is set to cushion, restrict or buffer, now starts shifting, moving and banging against another object. This will result in possible increased tire wear, alignment problems, and may effect steering and handling in the front, pending what is using bushings. And may cause handling issues in the rear or what is called “dog trailing” in the rear. Could cause the crossmember to shift or hit up against the body of the car.
(*HINT knocking noise from engine compartment*)

*What is dog trailing? Ever see that car driving down the road crooked and struggling to be straight in the lane? That’s it.

*Tip, people have complained about “can’t find a bushing” Look for it, it is found on any part that either moves, or buffers. Simple…

>Shocks. Shocks also have bushing that are factory mounted, their bushings will have the same result as the bushing statement, they would be loose and shifting/knocking about. How ever the event is very rare. Shocks are filled with oil that channels through internal valves. This way when the tire receives a impact, this impact is eased through the whole suspension. It is best to loose a tire than destroy the suspension. When shock absobers go bad, aggressive impacts to the tire are are now stricken through the chassis just the same. When they fail the oil is free flowing from one chamber to another. Others have leaky seals, so it is leaking out shock oil and pulling in air with every bounce. Other reasons for going bad is miles/hours, constant bad roads, pot holes, bottoming out.

I am sure you seen cars with shocks that should be replaced. They go over a bumpy section of road and instead of the tire just bounce and quit, they dribble like a basket ball super fast, and when they reach a good section of road, the tire stops, but the car body is still bouncing along, little by little to a stop. The dribble action is a violent hit to the tire. This will result in possible broken belt in the tire, or un-even tire wear, including suspension damage.

>Steering rack. It has a internal gear system that gets worn. They wear out due to the stress of road conditions of turning right to left and the suspension system hitting bumps. Increased wear can begin to have more what is called “Free play”. Slight free play is ok, but excessive free play is all together different.

The more free play, the more every bump forces the steering from the tires to shift right or left harder, the more the gears beat themselves up. More the steering becomes sloppy and uncontrollable. They go bad due to mileage time, shock strikes to the suspension system from bad roads and pot holes, a aggressive hit to the wheels. This will result in possible excessive tire wear, and bad steering.

>Sway Bars, some of these cars use two, one front and one rear. They all use end links. They provide counter force during cornering for better handling. When they go bad…I guess rust out from age or a impact collision to that side. I never really came across a bad sway bar.

>End links. To prevent hard tipping over body roll like that of the cars from the 1950’s to the 60’s ( The origin coin term “rides like a boat” ) Anti-sway bars are used on cars today to maintain control while turning, which increase better handling, even going straight.

To do this the bar is attached to the under carriage and END LINKS are attached to the bar and the suspension arm. So it is stabilized in the center and counter acting force against the suspension arm. In the game case the shock abs. End links go bad they have play because this is a pivoting parts. More play more lost stability. End links go bad from mileage/hours, a aggressive hit to the wheels This will result in possible increased body roll/tilt in cornering and may cause the vehicle to sway down the road. It will create un-even tire wear and annoying cornering in turns..

>Crossmembers and Suspensions 2

>Upper and Lower suspension arms. Ball joints in the upper and lower suspension arm may have not been greased, or is a none grease able joint, so now the grease it had from the factory is now depleted as dirt. Or maybe it uses a polyurethane style type bushing to make it greaseless and its worn out, or age, bad roads, pot holes, bottoming out the car. All these cool results will cause the joint socket wear out of round. This cause again play .

Since they are under enough pressure that if inflicted on a man could kill him, They tend to bind and pop aggressively and come apart. You may have seen this once, a car on the side of the road with a wheel on a steep vertical angle in the fender well from the lower ball joint failing, or cars that use upper control arms the wheel goes almost flat face down vertical out of the fender well, or low ball joints on cars with shocks abs will be hanging towards the back of the fender well looking like it was dragging with body damage from it. So for If the lower suspension arms are bad in the front, this will result in possible steering issues and increased tire wear. Aggressive popping and squeak (*HINT Noise from under the Hood*)

For the rear suspension arms, this will result in a increased in tire wear, alignment issue,


>Suspension Springs. If they become worn, the car sits lower, causing The upper body of the car to hit the frame bottom out catch bushing. some springs that are worn some how shift in their position and are no longer sitting right. Leaf springs will flatten out. They go bad mainly because of age, and possible constant repeating of bottoming out the car.
This will result in possible stiff riding conditions, damage to the lower suspension arms, tire damage, and if bushings are involved can become loose.

>Inner tie rods. Inner tie rod ends snap into the steering rack and also have a ball joint system. The beating of the steering rack and suspension system can cause them to go bad, the ball joint fails due to mileage time, shock strikes to the suspension system from bad roads and pot holes, a aggressive hit to the wheels. This will result in possible effect steering and excessive tire wear, and cause the vehicle to pull to one side.

>Outer tie rods. Outer tie rods are connected to the inner tie rods. The beating of the steering rack and suspension system can cause them to go bad, or the ball joint fails due to mileage time, shock strikes to the suspension system from bad roads and pot holes, a aggressive hit to the wheels. This will result in possible effect steering and excessive tire wear, and cause the vehicle to pull to one side.

*Why 2 tie rods for each side? Alignment reasons. Both tie rods are joined together by a adjustable sleeve. When this sleeve is turned, it changes the tires angle by being toe in or toe out ( look at your feet, turn your feet so your toes angle out and then in, same thing ). When doing a alignment job you have to set the correct degree of toe angle. Too much and the car will be squealing its tires loud enough to hear it a block away.

*The correct angle will make the car run straight without holding on the steering wheel for a bit. The wrong angle and the car will pull to one side off the back or quickly once you let the wheel go. Each different car has its own specs on alignment degrees for toe in or out. It’s a easy job, just turn the sleeve until it is at the correct angle and tighten up the sleeve and your done.

*Since front wheel drive cars use a drive train in the front, it would be harder to tell if a alignment job is needed due to pulling , since if one wheel is rolling faster than the other, because of road conditions due to weather or dirt. The faster moving tire will tend force a pull. But since alignment is not part of the game, this is just personal knowledge and understanding why 2 tie rods.

>Tires. Bad tires make handling the car difficult. Old worn tires will not perform well in weather conditions due to lack of traction. They may cause sliding in rain and snow, because of worn tire treads, water rotted tires have bad traction even with tread. Because They are stiff, feel glazed, have all sorts of cracks on it from the tread line to the side wall. When they heat up they risk the ability for a sudden surprise blow out on the highway.

Bad or worn tires are the result possible of age, mileage, hot dogging driving, suspension system issues, steering system issues, pot holes, bad road roads, unknown object penetration in a location on the tire making a repair impossible, over and under inflation. Bad tires will cause bad fuel mileage.

>Wheel Hub, these are used on the game cars, but are also on the real ones two, mostly common on front drive cars. It uses a bearing on the inside. and the tire is attached to it. How ever as simple as it is, they too also go bad. When they are you can kind of hear a wining noise coming from the location someplace as well as even in the car. They mostly go bad by Mileage/hours, abuse…

>Braking System

>Disc brake System, They work by the use of a Rotor also known as a disc, pads and a caliper. There are usually two kinds of disc, one type vented and one type Solid. The vented one goes to the front because most of the stopping power is done by the front brakes, so the heat transfer is higher. Were you can use solid in the rear because it is less, so is the heat transfer. The game uses both types. When applying the brakes your compressing the brake fluid, into the cylinders inside the calipers which pushes a free floating piston against the pad applying pressure to the disk to get the car stop. The free floating pistons is basically a piston sitting in a cylinder sleeve that is not attached to anything mechanical. So it is free to move back and forth enhanced floating piston. This is why the caliper is a repairable item. When you release the brakes, the pressure is released and that is it.

There are two different Disc brake system, The reason for this is because of the emergency brake attachment. The rear wheel of the car has a emergency brake cable that attaches to a lever that is part of the caliper, that way it could apply pressure to lock out the rear brake system. In this game they use only one kind, but I put this extra info for your personal knowledge.

>Brake Calipers are basically hydro clamps that use sliding lock style system. When the brakes are applied, The floating piston presses against the pad which presses against the disc on one side, causing the caliper to shift inward making the other pad press against the other side of the disc. They go bad by mileage/hours or abuse.

Bad calipers can be were they are in bad rusted shape that they can no longer slide freely and are seized. or were the piston is no longer free floating. Either the cylinder wall has some kind of ridge or the piston does. Moisture gets into the fluid and can cause internal caliper parts to rust. Also the heat from braking tends to heat up the fluid, this in turn is were the fluid begins to go black, and dirty. That is why it good practice to bleed the braking system to get clean fluid in to replace the old. Mainly when getting new brakes but lets face it, for some of us, not enough money hinders that a lot.

When the piston is in bad shape or cylinder wall, it hangs up the piston. So now you may have breaks that partly hang up or fully hang up. Now the car is struggling to go, and every time you brake the steering wheel whips out of your hand to the side that is hung up. Bad calipers will result in premature wear on the brake pads and disc on the side that has it.

>Brake Pads are metal plates with a friction material either glued on by special process or riveted on. The friction material is compressed against the disc when the breaks are applied, which as you know slows or stops the car. When Brake Pads go bad they could cause devastating results.

If they wear down to the metal plate they will carve out the brake disc in days. If this happens the disc surface will either wear thin enough to snap from the disc hub ( and you will know because it will whip the steering wheel to the side that has the working brake ), or the pad will thin out enough to eject from the caliper, and this will cause the caliper piston to come out enough to break its seal and spill all the break fluid on the road. Nice isn’t it?

Brake Pads go bad from mileage/hours, over heated, riding the breaks, improper stopping. They will result in damaged brake disc, loud grinding scaring noise, and if they thin out, they will pop the caliper piston seal causing a rebuild or replacement.

*yes you can over heat the brakes, when this happens the rotor/disk becomes warped.

Brake disc is nothing more than that, a surface for the brake pads to grab on to. Riding the brakes will warp the disc, because it gets too hot. Once it is warped you will know. Because every time you apply the brakes, the whole front end will have a violent shake, in the back it will be the suspension system and back side of the car, in the front it will be the suspension system and steering system, and can be bad enough to rattle your teeth out of your head. The whole front dash and steering will shake like a nightmare. More you apply the brakes the worst it gets, will not stop until you release them.

Brake disc go bad from, mileage time, riding the brakes, worn or bad pads. It will result in loud grinding scaring noise, warped discs cause the car disc location to shake violently.

>Drum Brakes, the original common braking system…like way back in the 1900 or something. A wheel cylinder sits at the top, and when the brakes are applied, the push what is called brake shoes to wedge into the brake drum. This uses two shoes, one forward and one back. pending on make and model of the car, they can be used either way on either side or, they can be location Specific, see Example…

EXAMPLE LOCATION SPECIFIC: Forward shoe will use a shorter friction pad were the rear shoe may use a longer/taller friction pad. So no matter what side of the car, the short friction pad must be towards the front and the longer/taller must be to the rear.

On rear drums when the Shoes go bad, they do not work as good, so they provide less stopping power. One way to tell if they are worn down is the front brakes work harder to stop the car. another is the emergency brake will not work when engaged. pending how bad they are you could get away by adjusting them. This also goes for the cars with front drums, but the have no emergency brake cable. So they just do not stop good. If they are working in good operation condition, then the shoes like the pads, wear down to the metal and began grinding the drums away from the inside out.

>Wheel cylinders are used in a drum style breaking system. It uses two little pistons inside it, when pushing the brake shoes out, it spreads the upper section forcing the shoes to wedge against the drums. When they go bad they leak, making braking harder, grabby, or the wheel seizes all the time when brakes are applied because of it leaking.

>Brake Shoes, A breaking system in which uses wedging the drums as a means to slow or stop the car. When They go bad the front wheels will do more work. Usually by adjusting the brakes out corrects this. If you have rear drums and can fully extend your E-brake easy and the car tends to roll a bit, most likely that is a tall tail sign that the brakes need replacing.

*This kind of system normally wears down and go bad by miles/hours of use or improper braking. Dirt mix water that got trapped inside will also cause a problem, leaking differential fluid will also tend to cause a problem. When this happens, the brakes have to be changed and the drums cleaned.

>Gear Box and Drivetrain

>Gear boxes. Gear boxes go bad due to low gear oil ( not too common find but not impossible ), but mainly improper shifting, causing gears to grind. Grinding gears will result in grinded gear teeth, sticking gears, premature wear and tare on needle bearings, main bearings, shafts, destroyed Synchromeshs ( these are used to slow the spinning gear down during shifting ), causing stiff shifting, sticking shifting or jumping out of gear.

Due to the amount of internal parts the gear box can be very noisy. Worn clutch pressure plates, clutch friction plates, bad Flywheel and clutch release bearings will also create noise. Bearings squeal during shift, friction plate slips because its worn or the pressure plate surface is worn. They become bad by high mileage/hours, hot dogging it. Ridding the clutch. This will result in possible slippage, noise, gas mileage loss or power loss because the friction plate slips at certain speed ( the engine is revving for 50kmh. but that trans is turning for 35Kmh because the clutch friction plate is slipping between the clutch pressure plate and fly wheel ).

* How dose a clutch do all that? Easy.

*You press the clutch pedal, this moves a slave cylinder, moves a clutch fork, and presses the release bearing, that slide and press force against the diaphragm spring on the presser plate ( that detail many finger object in the center the bearing attaches to ) that is pressing force back, which release the squeeze pressure from the friction disc. This assemble is attached to the fly wheel on the back of the engine that the starter uses to turn the engine over to start the car. so it is always spinning.

*So the bearing is spinning holding force and getting hot, gear is shifted which stops the clutch because the gearbox is “In Gear”, releasing the clutch pedal to reapply the squeeze pressure to the clutch friction plate cause a brief slip because it has to move a 10,000 pound car, and then full engagement and off the car drives away normally. So with all that neat stuff, yeah it could be destroyed. Race cars and drag cars are made for heavy shifting and beating on, not a factory available to the public car.
>Differential. Differential makes noises when driven with low gear oil. Similar to the gearbox. Also you can heat up bearing, the ring gear, pinion and spider gears. This is usually a result of hot dogging the car by over spinning the tires, but low gear oil will also get the same result but takes longer, just hot dogging the car is faster or instant. This will result in possible Noise, premature wear and tare stress on drive axles.

*It’s not a engine, how dose it get low gear oil? On the top of the case is a breather line or cap. It is to relieve pressure out of the gear case when it gets hot from normal driving condition. When this gets plugged, pressure can’t ventilate out. So it builds enough and forces its way out through the axle seal or gasket. Now it is leaking as it is used until there is not enough gear oil to leak out. Now your problems began if they haven’t already…


>CVC Drive axles on the modern car uses CVC joints. This is so it can pivot up and down and turn right and left in front wheel drive cars, and on rear wheel cars to be able to sit on a angle and pivot up and down. When they go bad, they have play, once they have play, they can be noisy too. Front drive axles get louder because they have to pivot not only for up and down but a harder pivot for turning left and right. This is why they get louder when they turn and quieter when they are straight.

During turning, the joint is binding and popping under the stress of the road condition and the power out put to the wheels as well as the shifting weight of the car. They go bad for one very popular reason. The rubber boot that covers the joint either tears, cracks or comes off from their seal ridge. Causing road dirt, water and the environment to ruin the grease and make the bearings rub against each other causing friction.

Rubber boots fail from age or a improper tow. Because the tow truck driver used hooks that pressed against the boot instead of the correct tie down attachment, or the wheel took a direct hit and this compressed the drive axle CVC joint in a manner it is not design to do. This will result in possible noise for rear wheel drive cars, and front wheel drive cars noise, and louder noise during turning and binding.

*The rear wheels? Yeah the rear wheels. Some cars use independent suspension. So the Differential is fixed to the body. Sport cars use this system for better handling and power in turns and a better alignment for the drive shaft to the Differential. Torque loss is possible on a drive shaft that is fitted on a car with a Differential that moves as part of the rear suspension. Because your diverting power to the first cross and roller, than making it turn on a angle to the next, and then turn on another angle to get to the Differential. During this process the cross and rollers are under the most load of stress of the power travel. But if you have a fixed Differential using independent suspension, Then the torque transfer is better and the cross and rollers have less load stress, which is now placed in the CVC joint were it can handle it better.

*If the wheel took a direct hit, the wheel and suspension damage will be present regardless front or rear.

>Drive Shaft. When drive shafts go bad because the use a cross roller style bearings at each end. This allows pivoting in rear wheel drive cars, so the shaft can move up and down when going over bumps. With out effecting the gear box. Drive shafts go bad due to lack of grease to the cross and roller, or When they receive a direct hit some place on the drive train causing it to bend or compress the cross and roller bearings in a manner they are not design for, abuse, Or due to Mileage/hours. When they go bad they make a clicking noise, the worse they get, more the risk of the cross and roller risks of breaking and ejecting the drive shaft.

*On some cars that have drive shafts you will see a small plate bolted to the body just under the drive shaft. This is a emergency catch, if the cross and roller fails, and under a load they tend to fail badly, this catch plate is suppose to prevent the drive shaft from ejecting from under the car. The out come is very aggressive, Your talking about a sudden release of power in a single blow.

*It is ideal when changing oil to grease the cross and rollers beside the front suspension by filling through the grease zerks/plugs. When pupping grease into a grease zerk on a cross and roller, what your looking for is what happen when the grease starts to seep past the seal, nothing or did it shift, and if it shift how bad. Also can you make the shaft shift by wiggling it? This is important because it is a sign of worn bearings, the more the worst. Using inspection mode would be simulating this action.

>Engine Fundamentals section 1

>Alternator. When they go bad they tend to wine internally, squeal from bad bearings. The regulator if bad causes the alternator to draw more for power making it slow down as well not to mention a bad regulator will not charge or charge the battery right. A bad battery can also damage the regulator making the alternator bad.
A bad alternator will result in possible belts to wear out and go bad, bad battery, no start.

>Idler pulley/Belt tensioner. Both pulleys use bearings that can go bad. The bad pulleys will not spin at the needed RPMs to keep up with the engine RPMs. So belts tend to slip at higher revs because it can’t keep up with the RPMs. This will result in possible belt wear or bad belts altogether.

ADDED FOR THE BELT TENSIONER; This will result in possible slip timing too.

ADDED FOR IDLER PULLEY; will cause improper charging of the battery too.

>Water pump. If it is going bad the bearing is failing or bad it will effect its seal, so it will leak. If it leaks, beside the risk of a over heated engine, it will leak all over both belts, risking a poorly charged battery and slip timing if its leaking bad enough. It also may not be able to turn fast enough to keep up with the engine RPMs. This will result in possible forced timing belt slippage. This will wear or destroy both belt types in different manners.

>Timing belt. Timing belts need to be inspected because they can go bad by means of dry rotting. The belt will have a old worn looking appearance with cracks, small pieces of rubber missing or a glazed spot, even normal wear and tare of stretching making it looser. This will cause it to slip or break and eject from the engine. Bad Pulleys and a bad water pump, will damage the belt as well. This will cause it to slip timing. When timing slips new problems began. A bad timing belt will cause spark plugs to fire at the wrong time. This will result in possible bad spark plugs, no start or run poorly, clog catalytic converter, bad gas mileage, engine damage. Or if it breaks, the car will just stop running while driving.

*What is the deal with the Timing belt? If you look you will see it is attached to a pulley gear on top and on bottom. The top is bolted to a cam shaft the controls the valves that are mounted in the Cylinder head. The bottom is bolted to the crank shaft. The valves have to open and close or stay close during the 4 stroke operation of the crank and be in Unison. Timing slips, valves open at the wrong timing, problems get costly if not fixed.

>Serpentine belt. Serpentine belts need to be inspected because they can go bad by means of dry rotting. The belt will have a old worn looking appearance with cracks, small pieces of rubber missing or a glazed spot, even normal wear and tare of stretching making it looser It can break and eject from the car. This will cause it to slip and the alternator will not be charging correctly. This will result in possible bad battery due to poor charging. If it broke, a alternator light will light up and after awhile all lights will go dim and the car will began loosing power and struggling to run because that battery is doing it all and is discharging from it. The car will die out while driving and become a no start.

>Battery. You can’t hand crank the car. It needs to be able to start, so you need a power source. The battery on a modern car dose 2 things, help the alternator during driving conditions and start the car. Batteries go bad after awhile. The battery has internal cells that hold a mixture of water and acid. A electrolyte fusion takes place inside the battery. The cell plates made of metals will give off a charge as it deteriorates from the acid.

The water is used to dilute and prolong the process. Dead cells that are done, the battery will have less charge to hold, the lesser the charge, the faster the battery dies out while in the middle of starting the car. Bad Batteries are unpredictable. Some have attempted to revive some and discover quickly that they can pump out the acid water from the top and become super hot to blowing open under pressure sending acid water everywhere. So it is just best to get a new one. A bad battery can be caused by a bad alternator over or under charging or not charging, or age and is just dead. This will result in possible no start, bad alternator.

*How a bad alternator? Because the alternator is stressing itself to charge a battery that is not taking it, or the battery is grounded internally causing the regulator in the alternator to burn up.

*Internal grounded battery? Never heard of it… Oh yeah, cars with internal grounded batteries crank real hard. For example: when a battery is internally grounded because its bad is easy to tell. When you use a jumping device that has jump start many cars and discover the every device you use to jump this one car, it drains the jump pack in seconds and cranks real hard. So if you jump start some ones car and their battery is internally grounded, his car will crank hard, and you will notice a alternator light on your car light up. Now your spending money to replace yours. Been there done that, never again. What causes it to be internally grounded, don’t know and not worth messing with.

>Engine Fundamentals section 2

>Air intake system. This uses a intake hose, Air flow meter, air cover, and air filter.

NOTE: This Game doesn’t have intake hoses… at lest for now they do not. Air covers uses clips, not bolts. The throttle body is what is on the cars, so they do not have air flow meters or sensors.

The air filter is to filter dirty air so it is clean going into the engine. Since the air flow meter is on top, it draws its air in from below, through the filter, through the air flow meter, into the intake hose, into the intake manifold to be dispersed in to the cylinders. If the air filter is plugged, it will choke out the engine. As you should know by now the ECM will try to compensate by leaning the fuel mixture because the Air flow meter is a sensor reading low air flow to it. A bad air filter is bad news. This will result in possible no start or runs poorly, fowled plugs, clog converter, risk of engine damage, bad gas mileage.

Air Cover has to seal, if not, dirt gets pass it. Some new cars will not run right if its not able to seal. The dirt can plug up the air flow meter, and the dirt particles getting into the cylinders and start scoring the cylinder walls causing blow by from the pistons. This will result in possible Air flow meter failure, engine damage, bad gas mileage.

Air Flow meter is a sensor that tells the ECM of the air particles coming through, so the ECM can control the air and fuel mixture ratio. If this part is bad can create problems because the ECM will attempt to once again compensate. They can go bad by mileage time, defect, dirt particles. This will result in possible no start or runs poorly, clog catalytic converter, fowled spark plugs, bad gas mileage.

*Why would it cause a no start. Well if the Air flow meter is bad, the ECM will not get a reading, so it will wait until it does before it will run the ignition module and or injectors, because it needs air flow information so it can control the fuel air mixture. All the car will do is just crank over and that is it.

Air hose intake just directs the air flow from the meter to the intake. They go bad by mileage time, heat, oil spillage. If this bad it will bring in dirty air in large amounts. If the ECM is fallowing the air flow sensor, the bad hose will throw off the air flow meter’s balance. So if it is running a bit lean, the bad hose will make it leaner. Some cars will stop running because of the sudden change in air flow making it too lean to run, it is not being restricted by a filter. Others may idle high. Most new cars just stop running. A bad air hose will result in possible engine damage, no start or runs poorly because it is starving for gas that is already being leaned out.

>Fuel Filter! One of the most common parts never checked by many. From real self made mechanics to players of the game. Even I had miss this little item in my life time. The fuel filter, filters out any debris and dirt coming from the fuel tank to the fuel delivery system. Debris and dirt will wipe out a injector system in a hart beat. Will plug up carburetors as well. If the filter it self is clogged up, no fuel will be available to run the engine or little fuel will be available to run the engine. This will result in possible no start, engine runs poorly, bad gas mileage maybe possible.

>Fuel pump is another over looked part. These go bad because a large dirt piece got sucked up in it and jammed the unit, defect, but the #1 reason is……running the car to empty of fuel all the time. And then when it is low and hot, filling it in with fresh cool fuel doing a fast cool down to the pump. So if your out of fuel and shut the car off and fill up, and it doesn’t start afterward, most likely that is what happen.

The fuel pump is not mounted on the engine so it is not a mechanical device like the old ones. It is a electrical device that is mounted inside the Fuel tank, so it is bathed in fuel. Fuel by default is already cold as is, even on a hot day. When gas gets warm it vaporizes quick. The vapor is what burns.

As the fuel pump is working yeah it is getting hot, but since the fuel in the tank is cold it keeps the fuel pump cool at all times. If the customer runs it low on fuel all the time, the pump will eventually seize up and stop working. Because its not bathing in enough fuel to keep it cool. A bad fuel pump will result in possible no start, poorly running engine because it is starving for gas, failure during driving will cause the car to quit running while driving.

NOTE: Maluch uses a mechanical fuel pump.

Fuel Rail systems, this game uses two types, MPI (multi Port Injection) and DI (Direct Injection). The different between the two is…

*MPI is mounted to the intake manifold, were it sprays fuel in the manifold chambers.
This unit goes bad when the lines are cracking or the injector goes bad, mileage/hours

*DI is mounted to the head were it sprays fuel into the combustion chamber. This unit goes bad when the delivery lines crack, injectors go bad due to carbon or mileage/hours

>Throttle Body: This is basically a simple part, for these engines, It is fitted to the front of the air intake manifold and throttle assembly as one complete unit. Considering the the engines maybe injector fed, and throttle body assembly is all that will be needed for this case with these engines. All it dose is it uses a throttle to control air flow for proper mixture from the intake stroke with the fuel.

They can be a performance item as in being PORTED and POLISHED. This means the ports that lead to the head have been Widen up between the two for the maximum flow without compromising strength. And Polished as in the inside has been blasted smooth as glass from all casting imperfections that would create a counter turbulence to the air flow. So being Polished all air flow is presumed equal and free flowing smooth and faster, more so than stock.

How ever some of these are made not only from aluminum, but also composite. Making it possible to warp out from heat over time besides the valve system wearing out.

This creates air leaks were it seals to the head under these conditions. and some are split so they have a top and bottom half increasing the possibility for a seal failure due to heat over time. The result would be causing poor performance, no start, bad gas mileage.

>Engine Fundamentals section 3

>Carburetor, a old system used as a fuel delivery system no matter what country your from. It is a basic system, vacuum from the engine during a intake stroke sucks fuel in from the carburetor’s venture lines. For the most part uses the help of natural gravity as well. The pump feed the gas into the fuel reservoir or fuel bowl. There is a float that would raise up and cut off the flow of fuel. Nice thing is once they are set, they are set to go. How ever if your timing is off, you may get run on, or if the float is bad, gas will pump up all over the engine. Carburetor’s are mechanical, so the don’t compensate for any power loss, or adjust if it is burning too rich. However in the right hands, can make it very dependable.

They are worn by age, miles/hours of use, from constant conditions. They can be rebuilt, or used as a core for a re-manufactured, or new.

>Ignition Wires. These are to transfer a spark from the spark module to the spark plugs. literally a tiny lighting strike, that will knock you away from the car, I know that one personally. You have no ideal how I hate that! If they go bad, then they will deliver spark to the engine block instead, causing a cylinder not to fire. This will cause the engine to run poorly or roughly were it is causing the engine to do the miss fire shake. And what happened to that fuel and air mixture that is un-burnt? Class? Right on its happy way to clog up the catalytic converter. And what is the ECM going to do about it? Class? That’s right, Compensate because it thinks there is too much fuel. Which dose what? Class? That’s right, create engine damage…

You also run the risk that the plug wires become so bad they can’t deliver that spark. So it will feed back into the ignition modular Now the modular is at risk of premature failure, and will go bad. With out good plug wires the car will not run or run poorly. Can result in engine damage, bad gas mileage, clogged Catalytic converts, and Ignition modular.

*Bad spark plug wires could deliver a spark to the engine block? How? Well the insulation on the plug wires go bad after awhile due to engine heat, spilled oil and such. And it is design to retain the spark so it can travel the wire to the spark plug. So when the spark plug wires insulator goes bad, the spark tend to travel through it to its closest ground, which would be the block. Maybe one day you get the chance and see it.

>Spark Plugs. This device is designed to have 2 electrodes at its base that goes into the cylinder head. On top is the connecting pin for the wire to plug to. One electrode is attached to the thread section that makes contact to the cylinder head. The other is in the center, protected by a insulator. When installed, on a compression stroke, all the fuel and air particle mixture is tightly compressed like gun powder in a shell casing. When the piston reaches top dead center, the ignition module sends a high electric charge that goes to the wires then the plug.

Just like lighting it needs a positive location to jump to a ground or negative location. So the charge runs down the center insulated electrode. The two electrodes do not touch each other because they are gaped. So it sparks a strike from one to the other. This causes a powerful controlled explosion inside the cylinder forcing a power push on the piston sending it down.

Since each cylinder has a piston and are attached by rods to a crank shaft. Crank shaft is were that bottom pulley is bolted to that you see the timing belt connected to on the engine, that doesn’t come off during a belt swap out. The cylinders must fire in unison to get the torque and power plus speed you need from the engine.

Spark plugs go bad because of mileage, bad wires, fowled out due to a rich fuel mixture or burn up from a too lean fuel mixture because of a faulty Air flow meter, Clogged catalytic converter. Defective or failing Ignition modular. This will result in possible engine not to start or run poorly. Can result in engine damage (un-burned fuel also slips pass the piston and works its way to the oil), bad gas mileage, clogged Catalytic converts.

>Ignition module. This is the replacement of the ignition distributor. It basically send spark to the spark plugs pending on which cylinder is at top dead center on a compression stroke. These go bad as a result of mileage, defect, bad plug wires or bad spark plugs. A bad ignition module will result in possible a no start or run Poorly, bad gas mileage, bad plugs. Will cause the car to stop running while driving. Clogged converter. A vicious cycle isn’t it?

>Cylinder Heads: These are the parts that cover the cylinders to create a compression seal. Common for valves and spark plugs to be added to this, as well as over head cams. When the piston comes up to the top and the valves are closed the air and gas mixture is compressed pending on cylinder size displacement. The game uses 3 kinds engines. Duel (2) cylinder air cooled type, V-8 and 4 inline cylinder engines, all engines are 4 stroke gas fuel engines.

NOTE: Maluch uses the Duel (2) cylinder air cooled type. It is a representation of a 594cc or 652cc 2 cylinder air cooled engine. So yes, the engine is a real engine.

Example: in the US a 350 eng, and 351 eng are two different cylinder size displacements.

The 8 cylinder engine may have a larger size displacement over the 4 cylinder. The heads seal this off for the compression. once the air gas is compressed to its fullest, the spark ignites off causing a internal explosion which send the piston down to do its 4 cycle run.

Heads also do make a difference in performance. A stock version is usually made to be gas saving but with some punch as well. Performance heads usually would have larger intake and exhaust valves for more fuel intake, and better exhaust blow out and a less convex valve section to keep a tighter compression. Timing is everything because a valve opening up on a head like this, with a piston coming to the top will be smacked and damaged.

When a head goes bad it is either warped, cracked, worn or broken valves, cracked valves, cracked valve seats.

Cracked, or warped head can result in; Poor performance, poor gas mileage, low power, No start, over heating, from being over heated, from being frozen during the winter. First sign would be white smoke if gasket is popped or head or block is cracked.

The old Standard compression rule of thumb is 180 psi min. Newer cars how ever may need to be higher.

Worn or broken valves, cracked valves, cracked valve seats; will cause back wash, burning oil, very poor gas mileage, very low power, no start.


>Engine Fundamentals section 4

>Camshaft. This is the hart for the timing system to make a 4 stroke engine run. Each lobe on the shaft is machined for timing it with the crankshaft. The lobes are position to raise a hydro lifter or push the vale steam indirectly. It is 2 lobes per cylinder, one for intake fuel and one for exhaust. When they go bad, they become flat over mileage/hours. Causing less effect to open vales. If a cam has to be change it is a good ideal to also replace the cam bearing for wear down reasons.

On the front is a cam gear, can be for a belt drive timing or a chain drive timing. Over time the belts can slip or the chain stretch making the timing process off as mileage/hours increased. Chains or belts can be change with out having to also replace the camshaft.

>Crankshaft. This shaft is the hart of the power delivery system, Pistons are attached here. As it turns in rotation it pushes the piston pending on what stroke travel is on, when the piston fires off, it is forced down creating power in the crank shaft turn. Crank shafts go bad by over heating, and low or no oil, as well as dirty oil. A knocking noise coming from the engine and plenty of glitter flakes and metal pieces is a sign of bearing failure of a connecting rod. When this is seen, the crank is usually done for.

>Push rods and Rocker arms. What? yeah you heard right class, they are here too!
On engines that use none over head cams have them in the engine block. So to run the vales in the head you would need hydraulic lifter, push rod, and a rocker arm. The cam lobe would push against the hydraulic lifter, which would push the rod up into the rocker arm. The rocker are is mounted on a pivot, so like a see-saw, would raise on one side and push down on the valve steam on the other side opening the valve. Usually this system is fine and can last the life of the car.

But they can be damaged, by over revving or plugged up converter. The damage is the rod bends. Once it has bent, its integrity is lost. Sure you can pound it straight, but once it is lost, it will bend again. There is no real support between the hydraulic lifter and the rocker arm, so it is always possible. You over rev and the push rod is getting hit so fast it final slips, or exhaust backs up as your making it go, so it push up against the valve and force it to close. Or the hydraulic lifter fails causing play between the rod and rocker arm. High Mileage/hours.

NOTE: No hydraulic lifters are available so you don’t have to worry about that.

* there are two of each per cylinder. One of the V-8 engine in this game use this system. so it is 8 rods, 8 rockers per side, a total of 16 each.

>Pistons, yes the game has serviceable pistons. Pistons use one oil ring for wiping the cylinder wall and two compression rings to seal off the chamber from blow by into the bottom end of the engine. They are connected to the crankshaft by a rod called a connecting rod. When the piston goes bad or the rings go bad, performance in that cylinder is dropped.

That is because blow by is happening so the cylinder looses compression. That is why you use a compression gauge to see how much compression loss is in there. They go bad by, bad dirty oil, over heating, high revs, high Mileage/hours, poor oil and no oil will destroy the rod’s bearing it is connected with causing it to knock and break off throwing it self and all shrapnel out the side of the block.

>Engine block, what is needed to make it possible for a power plant for the vehicle, so you can go places. It holds everything you need to have a fully operating engine. This game uses 3 types, a duel (2) cylinder air cooled engine, V-8, and a 4 inline cylinder. They can last the life of the car, or out last. They are cut for the work parts. You figure you couldn’t damage this right class? Oh yah you can!.

Over heating can cause the block to warp, a ice frozen engine can crack a water jacket near the bolt holes or cylinder sleeves and rendering the block junk, the connecting rod for the piston could break and eject with many broke metal out the side of the block down by the oil pan, taking that too. What to hear another good one, over heat the block enough and the pistons will seal themselves to the cylinder wall locking the engine. Cool huh?

>Engine Fundamentals section 5

>Radiator. The cooling system on a car. The difference between air cooled and water cooled is a air cooled engine uses fins to ventilate the heat that comes off the cylinder. You can see the cylinder between the fins. So they have to be clear, with low dirt build up. But a water cooled engine is sealed, so the cylinders are inside with no way to get cooled. The heat from the cylinder is hotter than the block itself. So there is no other way but to have it filled with Radiator fluid. Bad Radiators leak and provide poor cooling. The engine can not contain a proper cooling levels when there is a leak. The only leak it should have is over flow relief. But leaking from the radiator is not good.
Radiators go bad by mileage/hours/age, collision to the front end, a object kicked up into the radiator, bad clutch fan ejected into the radiator, a tool fell into the fan shroud and you find it in the radiator, engine over heated and the pressure cap failed so the radiator was compromised and popped open, and so forth…

*one way to tell if you over heated beside the temp gauge not working right or too high, is sudden lost of heat in the car. All that fluid is on the street someplace…

*Some people use stop leak. problem with this, it is a temp fix to get you from point A to a repair shop. And then you have to tell them that you used stop leak so they can flush the system. Because if you do not. The stop leak will finally plug the thermostat, and now you have a over heating problem.


>Starter. Starters just have one function, crank the engine over to start it, that’s it. So if it is bad, the engine will not get cranked, if it doesn’t get cranked, it will not run. Starters go bad mainly because of age and mileage/hours, constant cranking over the engine until the batter is low. After all, if it is not starting like it should, find out why. Also going into deep water flooding the starter out will too, because the water fills it bringing in dirt and drowning the electrical components inside. Subjecting that to dirty water will eventfully cause it to fail. A bad starter will result in a no start.

*How dose drowning a starter make it fail? Because the water drenches the stator which is on the inside and uses bearings and grease to turn, that will now have dirt particles needed for bearing failure. Also on the inside is copper components, so if the dirty water contains corrosive particles that will ruin the stator and pick up windings that it needs to generate a magnetic field to make it turn to start the car. Mind you, this is just one of the reasons. Doesn’t mean every time you go through a flooded area the starter will be bad just like that. But if one day you do and the starter fails, well there you go.

>Exhaust system. Exhaust systems can make noise, bad leaky pipes, rusty mufflers, manifolds, even damaged catalytic converters causing the combustion after sound, to by pass and escape the system. My understanding you can get loss power and poor engine performance from this. They can rattle and clatter and clank up a storm. This will result in possible exhaust leaks, loud noise

How ever the clogged catalytic converter is a deadly event to the engine. It prevents exhaust gases from escaping making it back up into the engine, because it is choking out while putting out very little as the engine RPMs increase putting out more exhaust. This will result in possible damage to the cylinder heads spark plugs, injectors, will cause vales and rods to bend as well as a risk to the engine itself. The car runs poorly has low power and struggles to run, bad gas mileage, no start or very bad starting if the convert is blocked.

>Down Load Content Section

>Information on DLC add-ons will be placed here as I get it and go over it.
(updated part location infomation on body parts)

>Youngtime DLC

*This DLC is part of the CMS 2015 game, it is a free. The vehicle is called a Maluch, a representation of a Polski Fiat 126. The rep is a off a real car. Some were produced in Bielsko-Biała, Poland. If you want more info on the real car itself, you need to look it up.

The Maluch has its very own shopping icon on the game computer/tablet, so for all its mechanical parts, body parts and rims you will find there.

(Updated infomation)

>Visual Tuning DLC

*This adds a body performance store to place on some fancy body parts and rims for your project car.

(Updated infomation)

>TraderPack DLC

*This adds 3 vehicles, Delray Custom, Sakura GT20 and Salem Spectre Fastback.
Their parts are also been added to the game parts shop and Visual Tuning DLC
Also adds in a inline 6 cyclender engine, v8 for the Dual Quad carb and mainifold, and a 3 carb and mainafold as well for the 6.



>Anything that I find or comes up that maybe relevant will be placed here…..

*In-Game Music, link provided by Red Dot…. Play list by someone else..

If you enjoyed the in game music, or you haven’t got the game yet and heard some of it before and liked what you heard or want to hear it. Then here you go…


*When you select a part to be sold, bought, repaired, you can hit “Enter/Return” key for a faster response than using the mouse.


*Redmist_uk had informed me that when selling out a full inventory you can right click to be prompt “sell All?” clicking on apply or “Enter/Return” key will sell everything at once.


*If you play the game and it lags, first try to shut off all settings from “Yes” to “NO”
Then lower the res to 800×600 as a rule of thumb. Go back to your game and see how it runs. If it runs normally then in crease the res or turn on the vid options as you see fit until it lags again. The last setting that ran the game the best is what you want. Your desktop may be able to run on high settings but games are demanding, and made by different companies. So certain games may need to be ran at less were others ran at more. I hope this helps..


>Tires can be changed from vehicle to vehicle not using the same rim type. You have to play with that to see what works and doesn’t. Mainly useful on your restore projects.


>The new parking garage set up makes it possable now for you to do two things.

*1) You now have four to select from…

*2) You can eaither visit the parking garage to get the car you want, or select the car’s name in the parking slot and have it transfer to the shop this way without going into the grage at all.


Jack Cossack has informed me that while on the repair bench, hold left shift and just click on the worn parts for a faster repair..


btgoodgame343 has informed me that when restoring cars, to restore the car body itself, not only must you get the last set of tools, but in the shop by the right lift nere the tire machine, there is a green welding torch. You must go here, click on it, and select the car that you wish to do the main body work, and it will be fixed.. You still would need to do the regular body fixes on the replaceable parts yourself, such as doors, bumpers, hood, trunks and what not…


Super chargers are available for both V-8 engine block types..

The Dyno-tester is avalible as a room addtion you can get.. it will be to the right of the “brake and shake room”..


> Recap over view section

-No start. in order for any engine to work you need ignition, oxygen, fuel, power source. bad exhaust system can hinder a cars ability to run or run right. Use the OBD and do a scan. That is what it is there for. Use the examine tool for the exhaust, that why it is there, examine the fuel filter, it gets missed a lot.

-if it has also suspension issues as well, you first need to get the car running before you can test drive it.

-Car runs poorly. same thing as a no start. Always include the exhaust as well in your inspections…

-Car has bad steering or brakes or makes noise going over bumps or sways. Take it on a test drive. The test track is not a time trial track or stunt track, so don’t rush and crash the car. There is no “first place I won!”, This isn’t Car Mechanic Test Race Winner Simulator 2015. Just drive it normally. if you have a test path. do a test drive and a test path.

– for those with out a test path. do your test drive, pull your tires and go to inspection mod and check the suspension, replace what is red first. some items will show up as condition unknown. you have to pull it, and check your inventory to see its condition. if good, re-install it, if bad, replace it.

-always check the oil, add as needed. If its black, change it. even if its not on the work order. Why not?

-always change what is red, because this is a bad part that has to be changed. Replace it with a NEW part, your not loosing money doing this. In real life this is done anyway. Do not concern yourself with percentages unless you have two side by side identical parts your reviewing in your inventory for role playing reasons. I have used the percentages for tire rotations reasons. I put the better tire and placed on the drive axles. That is just meh.

-some parts may not show up its condition when you use inspection mode, so you will HAVE to pull it, then check your inventory to see its condition.

-once the work is done, and the car is ready to leave, you can pull up your inventory and sell off the bad parts. if not, it will get cluttered.

-And most of all, have fun! There is no race to the next level, so stop stress it out, and run that shop your way!

>Tutorial Videos 00

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>Tutorial Videos 01

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