Overview
The pig village is arguably the most advantageous place to construct your main base in Don’t Starve. This guide will cover the advantages and disadvantages of making your base in the pig village, how to best make use of your time when you start a new world in DS, how to best find the pig village in a new world, and general information and tips on how to most efficiently survive with the pig village.Note: this guide is currently written with base Don’t Starve in mind. For a more updated guide with post-Reign of Giants DLC info, see the Don’t Starve Together version of this guide.Find the Don’t Starve Together version of this guide here.
Pig Village Advantages
Building your base in a pig village has many excellent advantages over building it anywhere else. This section will cover those advantages thoroughly, as well as giving you some additional information and tips.
Protection
Building your base inside of a pig village offers you good protection from all basic enemies. Pigs are completely friendly to the player (unless you attack them), and are naturally hostile to almost every enemy in the game; automatically engaging any threat that comes within a screen length of them. And when one gets attacked, all nearby pigs for several screen lengths in each direction will join the fight. This means that hound attacks will be very easy to stop if you’re in a pig village during the day, all you have to do is run around until all of the pigs engage and kill the hounds. Be sure to grab any monster meat they drop before the pigs eat it. One pig can usually kill 2 to 4+ hounds before dying unless it gets completely mobbed by them. This also means that you’ll be safe from any spiders, tall birds, merms, tree guards (pigs’ kiting AI usually allows them to hit tree guards and then escape before it can hit back), and just about everything else. Even deerclops can be taken down by large pig villages that have 60 pigs or more, though it’s still better to just lead him away to prevent any possible collateral damage to your base.
When relying on pigs to kill enemies, keep in mind that pigs sleep at dusk and night unless they were already engaged in a fight, at which point they’ll finish it before going to sleep by a nearby light source. If a mob of hounds or spiders attack during this time, you can usually just run around a campfire until it turns day as long as you have wood. Or if you’re really desperate you can run around in the dark; quickly equipping and unequipping a torch or mining light just before the night monster attacks you (just before the hissing noise stops), thereby allowing you to move freely in the night whilst conserving your light source’s durability (albeit at the cost of a massive sanity drain). Tip: due to a glitch, a torch or mining light at 100% durability can be rapidly tapped on and off without using any durability. Once it turns day, all the pigs will wake up at once and mob the enemies. Another way to easily stop hounds at night if the pigs are asleep is to attack nearby spider dens (several always spawn in the forest near a pig village) to make all of the spiders wake up and start following you. Then you can just run circles around the spiders and hounds until the hounds lose interest in you and start attacking the spiders. Most or all of the hounds in an assault can be killed in this way. Getting the monster meat drops from these fights may be tough, as both spiders and hounds eat monster meat on the ground.
Meat Grinders
You can kill any enemy with no risk to yourself by simply luring them into the pig village. Even big groups of spiders will be easily killed if you lure them into the pig village, which will give you lots of monster meat, silk, and spider glands (just be sure to grab the monster meat before the spiders or pigs eat it).
Minions
Pigs can be befriended by feeding them any meats, eggs or food based on meat (even pig skins and slurper pelts). Befriended pigs will follow and help the player for at least half a full day cycle, and for up to 2.5 game days after max feeding. Feeding a pig a small meat item (morsels, drumsticks, frog legs, etc), egg, pig skin, or slurper pelt will cause the pig to follow you for half of a full day cycle, and giving them a large meat item or monster meat will cause them to follow you for 1 full day cycle. Giving them multiple meat items will linearly stack the amount of time that they follow you, up until 2.5 game days. If a pig is actively attacking the player, giving them a meat item will cause them to become neutral again, and then giving them a second meat item will befriend them. Befriended pigs will automatically attack any enemies near them, can be ordered to attack far mobs by clicking on them (including other pigs; which will lead to one of them dying in the fight), and can be ordered to cut nearby trees if you first hit one of them with an axe (they’ll then continue to cut all nearby trees until you get too far from them, there’s no more trees nearby, an enemy approaches them, or until your friendship wears off). Befriended pigs also emit a powerful positive sanity aura in a small area around themselves which will rapidly give you sanity when you stand near them (I’ll address how to best take advantage of this in the next section). Pigs will remain loyal until their loyalty timer expires, but during the dusk and night they’ll still go to sleep near a light source if they’re not already in a fight. They’ll still wake up and fight any mobs that approach them during this time. Pigs can also be given hats to wear, and if the hats provide any effect, then the pigs will receive this effect. Giving a pig a football helmet to wear will decrease the damage that it takes by 80%, and giving a pig a mining light will allow the pig to create its own light; though it will still go home at dusk like normal unless it’s engaged in a fight.
An Easy Source Of Sanity
Befriended pigs have an aura around them that will rapidly increase your sanity whenever you’re close to them (+25/minute). However, pigs will often run from you if you get too close to them. To prevent this during day, you can order the befriended pig(s) to chop down trees by hitting a tree with an axe, and then standing beside them while they work, allowing you to get the sanity boost and lots of wood without having to use your axe durability. During night all befriended pigs will run to and sleep/stand beside a nearby light source. By making a fire and standing beside them at night, you can get the most out of their sanity boost very easily, especially if you befriend many just before dusk.
Also if you have any green mushrooms growing in the forest near the pig village, you can pick them at dusk, cook them, and then eat them to get 15 sanity at the cost of 1 health. Alternatively, you can use the silk from killing nearby spiders to make a tent with 6 silk, 3 ropes, and 4 twigs. Sleeping at a tent at dusk or night will restore 60 health and 50 sanity at the cost of 75 hunger and will fast-forward time to the next day. One tent can be used 6 times before disappearing.
An Easy Source Of Food
Pig villages have a variety of different food sources in and around them. The pigs are a good source of respawning meat, especially if you turn them into a werepig by giving them 4 monster meat; which is easily acquired by killing spiders. One pig will drop 1 meat or 1 pig skin, while a werepig will always drop 2 meat and 1 pig skin. Werepigs won’t be attacked by pigs normally, but werepigs will attack pigs if the the player is not around (then once it hits one pig, all others nearby will also join in the fight). Even so, fighting a single werepig isn’t too difficult, as it has a predictable attack pattern that makes it easy to kill with any weapon (just hit it twice in a row, move out of the way to avoid its attack, and repeat until it dies). The spider dens that spawn in the forest around the pig village (there will always be at least 2 somewhere near the pig village) will provide a great source of respawning monster meat. The pig village itself may spawn with small 3×3 placements of berry bushes and/or flowers, which will provide respawning berries and butterflies respectively. The forest that always spawns near a pig village will more than likely have berry bushes, flowers, and/or mushrooms growing in it which will provide a source of respawning berries, butterflies, and red caps; green caps; or blue caps, respectively. Continued…
Pig Village Advantages Part 2
An Easy Source Of Manure
Pigs will produce manure whenever they’re fed a fruit, vegetable, mushroom, or flower petals; which will allow you to easily build many advanced farm plots or fertilize berry bushes and grass tufts. A pig will accept and eat any non-meat items you give it every 15 seconds. Tip: A super-quick trick to convert entire stacks of these into manure is to turn a pig into a werepig with 4 monster meat, and then drop the whole stack(s) of it on the ground. He’ll then immediately run up to them and quickly eat each one individually, producing manure with every single one. Using this you can potentially build several advanced farms immediately upon finding the pig village, if you can make an alchemy engine and have gathered lots of flower petals or other disposable manure-producing items on the journey there. When your base is set up and you have many berry bushes growing, you can give each berry to a werepig every time they grow in order to easily acquire tremendous amounts of manure in a short period of time (much more manure than a whole herd of beefalo could produce in the same amount of time).
An Easy Source Of Health
Two or more spider dens always spawn somewhere near the pig village, and spiders will often drop spider glands when they’re killed. Pigs won’t eat spider glands off the ground, though you can optionally give it to them to heal them. Each gland heals 8 damage when used, and can be used to craft a healing salve with 1 spider gland, 1 rock, and 2 ash; each healing salve heals 20 health. Also, if you made many farms with all the pig manure, you have a chance to get a dragon fruit from each seed. Once you are able to get all of your farms growing dragon fruit, you’ll be able to easily make dragonpie using 1 dragon fruit and 3 filler (including sticks which you should have in abundance), which will give you a whopping 75 hunger and 40 health back each. Blue mushrooms may also be able to be found in the forest near the pig village. You can get blue caps from them during the night, and eating one raw will give you 20 health and 12 hunger at the cost of 15 sanity. Most cooked foods and things cooked using the crock pot will also give you some health back when you eat them, and since food is plentiful in and around the village, it should be easy to get missing health back over time.
An Easy Source Of Gold Nuggets
The pig village will usually have a pig king in it who will give you gold nuggets for any meat item, eggs, and grave items (2 to 8 gold nuggets per grave item). The pig king will not accept monster meat for gold, though you can cook monster meat on a fire and then give it to a bird in a bird cage in order to get an egg, and you can then give that egg to the pig king for gold. This allows you to easily get huge amounts of gold after looting a graveyard for all of its items, and makes gold renewable on the surface, since meat respawns. Gold nuggets are used to craft many useful things including science machines, alchemy engines, stronger tools, the walking cane, the bird cage, the fridge, the lightning rod, the mining light, and more. If the pig village you find does not have a pig king in it, then he’ll be at another village at the opposite end of a road that connects the two villages.
An Easy Source Of Pig Skin
Killing a pig will yield either 1 meat or 1 pig skin, while killing a werepig will always yield 2 meat and 1 pig skin. You can use pig skin for a variety of useful things, including football helmets (one of the best headgear items in the game), ham bats (the third strongest melee weapon in the game; it has unlimited uses, but turns to rot after 10 days), umbrellas (used to negate the insanity effect of rain and the rain damage done to WX-78), piggybacks (this lets you carry 4 more things than a backpack, but makes you move 20% slower; making it worse than the backpack for general use, as it lets certain mobs catch you easier), one-man bands (lets you befriend up to 9 pigs or bunnymen temporarily but is expensive to craft; thus it’s not recommended), and additional pig houses (very useful for increasing the size and power of your village).
Meatballs And Meaty Stews Can Still Be Easily Made In Winter
One of the best things about the pig village is that you can easily make meatballs and meaty stews, no matter what season it is. Spiders respawn regularly in nearby spider dens and can be killed for their monster meat during day, dusk, or night no matter what season it is. You can then use the monster meat to make meatballs with 1 monster meat and 3 filler items (other than twigs), or you can give 4 of them to a pig to turn it into a werepig in order to get 2 regular meat and 1 pig skin. Monster meat can also be quickly farmed from hound mounds if any happen to be in a desert nearby (along with teeth and red/blue gems). Pigs respawn from their houses every 4 days and still roam during the day, no matter what season it is, and can be turned into werepigs and killed in order to get the 2 meat and 1 pig skin that they drop. You can then use the meat to make a meaty stew with 2 meat, 1 monster meat and 1 filler item (other than twigs or a second monster meat).
If it’s Winter and you find yourself with no filler to use in the crock pot recipe for meaty stew (you can’t use 2 monster meat as it will make nasty monster lasagna, and using 3 regular meat is a big waste), you can cook 1 monster meat on a fire and give it to a bird in a birdcage in order to get 1 egg, which you can then use as a filler without penalty.
Tips: Build a fire pit somewhere near each spider den so that you can keep warm during the Winter and avoid the night monster during the night while still being able to hunt spiders. You may also want to destroy a tier 3 spider den to get the spider egg, so that you can plant it closer to the base for easier access. If you do this, be sure that the den is at least 2 screen lengths away from the nearest group of pig houses in your village and at least 4 screen lengths away from the main fire pit/crafting area in your base; as spiders roam around their dens during the dusk and night and can be a problem.
Pig Village Disadvantages
While the pig village has many advantages, it also has two notable disadvantages. This section will cover those disadvantages while suggesting ways to overcome them.
The Full Moon
When the full Moon rises, all pigs that were outside during the night will turn into werepigs. However, since pigs usually go into their houses for the night when it turns dusk, this is usually not a problem. The only time that it is a problem is when pigs are prevented from entering their homes at the start of dusk, and then the Full Moon rises. Situations where this can happen include: the pig is befriended by the player when it turns to dusk, the pig is in a fight when it turns to dusk, or if you leave the pig village during the day whilst the pigs are out and then you return later during the night of a Full Moon (because pigs, like all mobs, freeze in place when you go very far away from them, preventing them from being able to physically go home when dusk starts). In the latter situation’s case, the entire village’s population of pigs could turn into werepigs, which is a big problem if you have a lot of pig houses, as werepigs are even tougher than normal pigs.
Fortunately, even if the entire village turns into werepigs, you can easily avoid them by simply staying by a camp fire or a fire pit outside of the village during the night of the Full Moon, or if you’re really desperate you can even run around in the dark; quickly equipping and unequipping a torch or mining light just before the night monster attacks you (just before the hissing noise stops) until it turns day. Once it turns day, all pigs that were werepigs will return to normal. For the Winter time you may want to create an ‘outpost base’ a little ways away from the pig village to help you avoid this issue, and to act as a place to wait for Deerclops if you don’t want him spawning near your base and smashing up your base’s structures. Your outpost base should be fairly far from the village, usually next to a road that leads to the village for ease of travel. Your outpost base should have everything you’ll need during the Winter, such as a fire pit, tent, crock pot with a meaty stew on it, a chest or two with some extra supplies (wood for the fire, crafting materials, a weapon with high durability, armour with high durability, a thermal stone, etc), and whatever else you need to help you survive.
Pigs Steal Food Off Of The Ground
Pigs and werepigs will eat any and all food off of the ground, including meat, fruits, vegetables, mushrooms, flower petals, seeds, rot, and wet goop. Eaten fruits, vegetables, mushrooms, and flower petals will cause them to produce useful manure, but everything else will simply be wasted if they eat it. Pigs can sometimes even eat enough monster meat dropped by slain monsters to turn into a werepig on their own, though this is very rare.
You can avoid this by quickly picking up any food items that are on the ground (you’ll often want to prioritize picking up the meat and monster meat dropped by slain enemies during a battle in or around the village), and by storing food items in chests, fridges, on crock pots, on drying racks, or on farms.
Starting Out in a New World
The first days on a new world is arguably the most critical time of the whole game. This section will tell you how to make the most of your time when you’re just beginning on a brand new world, from simple tips to advanced strategies.
Starting Out
When you first start out in a new world, you’ll want to go around gathering up all of the resources and food that you can. No matter what it is, grab it (except seeds which you can just eat immediately for a temporary hunger decrease, and possibly red mushrooms which have little-to-no practical use at the beginning of the game).
Don’t engage any hostile mobs unless you have a football helmet or other armour, and a decent weapon. If anything starts chasing you, just run away until they lose interest.
Try to grab as many flower petals as you can until you have a max stack, as you can give them to pigs in order to create manure for farms or fertilizer later on. Whenever you see a butterfly spawn from a flower, kill it for its useful wings that give you 8 HP and 9.375 hunger each. Butterflies are easy to kill with your bare hands or a melee weapon by going to attack them, chasing them until you’re right beside them, and then pressing ‘F’ to immediately attack them (they die in 1 hit). Before night comes, you’ll want to make an axe and start cutting down trees until you have enough wood to make 2 or 3 campfires and 1 science machine. Since trees grow just about everywhere in the world, you should spend your time gathering other, more limited resources at the beginning. When night comes you can collect any resources and chop down any trees near your campfire even if they’re in the dark slightly, just be sure to stay close enough to the fire that you can move back into the light when you hear the night monster’s hiss. If you find any touch stones whilst exploring, activate them. If you see any resources, tools, or equipment dropped by dead explorers, be sure to pick them up. Be wary of strange chests that spawned in the world naturally unless you know what they do, as they may be a devastating set piece trap. Some other suspicious-looking set pieces may be traps as well, which activate once you open a chest or take an item. Be sure to memorize which set pieces are safe and which ones aren’t. You can find more info on set pieces here.[dontstarve.wikia.com] If you encounter a swamp biome in the early game, you can optionally try to grab 8 cut reeds so that you can make a bird cage as soon as possible when you find a place to make your base. If you see any merms fighting tentacles in the swamp, you can stick around and try to grab any loot that they drop after the fight is done. Do not engage any enemies in the swamp yourself until you have sufficient weapons and armour, and be sure to avoid hidden tentacles (you can see them while they’re hiding by a noticeable disturbance on the surface of the swamp). As soon as you find a boulder in any biome, craft a pickaxe and harvest it, as you’ll need rocks to make a science machine, alchemy engine, and other useful structures. Leave any nitre that you find in the early game, as it’s just a waste of inventory space.
Try to find a single gold nugget so that you can make a science machine and begin prototyping useful gear/structures in order to save up inventory slots and gain more valuable resources. You can get gold early on by mining a boulder with a gold vein in it, finding a nugget lying on the ground in a graveyard, giving a meat item, egg, or gravedigger item to the pig king, mining stalagmites near the entrance inside of a cave, or some other means. Once you’ve found a gold nugget, use it to craft a science machine and then place it wherever you are. Science machines are inexpensive to craft, so it’s not a big loss. Use the science machine to prototype a backpack (for more inventory space), a shovel (for digging up berry bushes, grass tufts, saplings, and graves), a spear (for easily fighting and killing enemies), and anything else you think may be situationally useful. If you find a rockyland biome you may even be able to prototype an alchemy engine with this initial science machine, which you can then hold onto without placing, for when you eventually find a place to set up your base. Once you have your shovel, dig up all of the berry bushes, grass tufts, and saplings that you come across up until you have several full stacks of each. If you come across any graves, you should dig them. Each grave dug costs 10 sanity, but prototyping new things at a science machine, alchemy engine, or other crafting station gives you 15 sanity back, allowing you to easily negate this early loss of sanity by prototyping some inexpensive items.
If you need to get sanity back desperately before you have a base set up, look for green mushrooms (they emerge from the ground during dusk) and blue mushrooms (they emerge from the ground during night) in a forest or swamp biome. You can cook them on a fire and eat them in order to get a significant sanity boost (15 for cooked green caps at a cost of 1 HP, and 10 sanity for cooked blue caps at a cost of 3 HP).
The End Of The Beginning
Once you feel that you have plenty of food, wood, sticks, grass, flint, rocks, and/or gold, and several good stacks of berry bushes, grass tufts, and saplings; it’s time to start looking for the pig village so that you can start to set up your base.
Finding the Pig Village and General Info
This section will tell you how to best find the pig village in a default new world, and what you may expect to see in a typical pig village.
Finding The Pig Village
When looking for the pig village, the first thing that you’ll want to look for is a cobblestone road. Cobblestone roads will lead to a pig village at one of the ends 90% of the time (10% of the time it will lead nowhere, and one of the dirt roads will lead to the pig village instead). Depending on where you spawned in the world, finding the road can take a while. Just make sure you have plenty of berries, carrots, morsels, and/or butterfly wings to eat, be sure to grab any opportune food you find on the way, and search each area thoroughly unless it’s a large swamp, savanna, or rockyland biome, as it’s rare to find a paved road or pig village there. You’ll most often find the pig village in a grassland biome beside a forest biome, AKA the biome where the ground consists of bare dirt and there are many trees. Most often there will be a single pig village in the world, but sometimes there will be two; one at each end of the road. You can tell if there’s two as one of the villages will have a pig king but very little pre-placed material plants, while the other will have lots of pre-placed material plants but no pig king. When there’s two, you’ll want to build your base in the one that has the best assets: the one with the most pig houses, the most material plants growing nearby, and the most generally useful things nearby.
Typical Characteristics Of A Pig Village
Most pig villages will have a pig king, 5 to 9 pig houses, pre-placed 3×3 formations of berry bushes, grass tufts, flowers, and/or carrots and occasionally several merm heads on sticks randomly placed around it. Since pig villages always have a large forest biome nearby, you can expect to find many trees, saplings, mushrooms, and flowers nearby. Be careful not to start a forest fire otherwise almost everything in this biome will be lost. Pig villages will most often be bordered by the ocean on 1 to 3 sides. There will always be at least two spider dens in the forest near the pig village which you can use to get monster meat, silk, and spider glands easily. As mentioned before, if you suspect there’s two split up pig villages in the world, then you’ll want to inspect both to determine which one is the best before setting up your base.
Making Your Base in the Pig Village and Useful Tips Part 1
This section will give you information and tips on how to best design your base, what structures are best to build for your base, and tell you how to make the most of your time and resources.
Starting Your Base In The Pig Village
When you first arrive in the pig village, do not to pick flowers or dig up mushrooms that are in or around the pig village, as they will be more useful over time since flowers spawn endless butterflies for you to eat and mushrooms can be used as filler in crock pot recipes. If you have a crock pot you can use 1 butterfly wings, 1 filler item (including any mushrooms), and 2 twigs to make butter muffins that heal 20 HP and give you 37.5 hunger each.
The first thing that you’ll want to do when starting your base in the pig village is look to see where most of the pig houses are located within it, and put down your fire pit in the middle of them all, so that you get the maximum amount of protection at all times. From there, you’ll want to find a safe place away from all other flammable things to plant your berry bushes, grass tufts, and saplings. Pig villages will usually be bordered by the ocean on 1 to 3 of their sides, so you can use that as a natural barrier against hounds and deerclops. You can place your material plants beside the ocean in order prevent red hounds from running through them during the Summer and igniting them all when they die. However, even with this precaution, if you have room you should still plant every group of 20 or so plants away from the other groups of plants in case lightning or a red hound does happen to spawn near them and ignite one set of them. If you have no ocean bordering your village, you can always just chop down a large area of trees and put your material plants inside of a pen blocked off with stone walls. Just try to not be anywhere near them when the hounds are coming during the Summer, to avoid red hounds spawning near them and potentially burning them. Try to fertilize your replanted material plants as quickly as possible so that you start getting good material production. Prioritize fertilizing the berry bushes first unless you desperately need grass or twigs, as you can give the berries to pigs in order to get more manure with which to fertilize exponentially more plants with. Grass tufts should be prioritized second, and then saplings should be prioritized last since you’ll likely have several natural saplings growing in the forest around you.
General Tip: If a fire is starting to spread uncontrollably through a forest or other flammable materials, you can stop it from spreading by leaving and rejoining the game. Things that were already lit on fire will still be burnt, but the fire itself will be gone.
If you start running low on food, then look around for things to eat. If you’re desperate for food and don’t yet have a crock pot, you can always kill some spiders in the nearby forest, cook the monster meat on the fire, and eat that until better things become available. Though this should be the last resort, as monster meat drains your sanity every time you eat it.
Expanding Your Base
The next thing that you’ll want to do is prototype an alchemy engine if you don’t have one already, so that you can unlock better things to craft. Hopefully, you’ll already have acquired enough stones and gold from your original exploring to craft one right away. If not, you can get additional gold from the pig king (assuming your village has one) by giving him meat, morsels, fish, frog legs, drumsticks, eggs, gravedigger items, etc. If you need more stones and/or gold, then you’ll have to go looking for boulders in the forests or a rockyland biome. You can get the wood easily from the nearby forest. Once you have the alchemy engine, place it and all other structures as close as you can to the sides or back of the fire pit (not in front as it will block your view of the fire pit, causing you to have to switch your view around whenever you want to add fuel to it) so that you can work on stuff in your base during the night with only a single fire pit lit.
Once you have an alchemy engine, craft some boards and then make a chest or two to put away things that you don’t want to be carrying. Generally the only things you should carry with you is the basic tools, a weapon, a walking cane (when you get one), a torch, a backpack, a football helmet, a stack of flint for tools and spears, a stack of gold for luxury tools, a stack of twigs for all tools and other craftables, a stack of wood and grass for campfires and other craftables, a stack of rocks for various craftables, and a stack of good food that you can use to gain back a lot of hunger quickly. Flammable objects should be kept inside chests, while non-flammable objects like rocks, flint, gold, gems, hound teeth, stingers, charcoal, tools, weapons, the Things, etc can simply be kept on the ground in order to save slots in the chests and make things easier to find.
Next you should try to get a crock pot if you don’t already have one. To get 6 charcoal, use pinecones to plant at least 6 trees away from all flammable materials. Note: the pig houses and all of your placeable structures are fire-proof unless you’re playing the Reign of Giants DLC. Wait until they all grow into small trees, and then ignite them with a torch in order to get charcoal. Once you get the crock pot you’ll be able to make meatballs using 1 meat item (even monster meat or small meats) and 3 filler items of your choice (except twigs) in order to get back 62.5 hunger, 3 health, and 5 sanity, and butter muffins using 1 butterfly wings, 1 vegetable item, and 2 twigs to get back 37.5 hunger, 20 HP, and 5 sanity. These two recipes are the easiest to make during the early game, and both replenish a good amount of stats. Later on you’ll be able to make pierogis using 1 meat item, 1 egg (the egg can be made by giving any meat item to a caged bird), 1 vegetable, and 1 filler (except twigs) in order to get 40 HP, 37.5 hunger, and 5 sanity back (pierogis also spoil in 20 days, rather than 10-15 like most crockpot foods), dragonpies using 1 dragon fruit (acquired from a farm plot rarely) and 3 twigs to get 75 hunger, 40 HP, and 5 sanity back, and meaty stews using 2 meat, 1 monster meat, and 1 filler (except twigs) or 2 meat and 2 small meats (morsels, drumsticks, frog legs, etc) to get 150 hunger, 12 HP, and 5 sanity. As mentioned before, you can easily get the ingredients for meatballs or meaty stews from nearby spider dens, pigs turned into werepigs, and berry bushes or mushrooms. Planting flowers around your base will cause butterflies to spawn rapidly, which can be used for butter muffins or as filler. You should primarily rely on meaty stews for the first Winter as plants don’t grow and butterflies don’t spawn, but pigs and spiders continue to spawn normally.
Be sure to put lightning rods around your base. Ensure that all valuable flammable materials and a good bit of the nearby forest are covered by it, otherwise lightning can potentially strike and burn them at random. Each rod covers about two screen lengths in every direction. Lightning will always strike somewhere in the player’s line of sight, so keep that in mind when leaving your lightning rod-protected area while it’s raining.
Now work on making farms out of manure. As mentioned before, a super quick way to convert entire stacks of items into manure is to turn a pig into a werepig with 4 monster meat and then drop whole stacks of disposable non-meat food or petals in front of it. It will rapidly eat each one and produce manure. Make as many farms as you can, and keep planting seeds in them to keep a steady supply of food growing. Try to keep the farm plots as close to the fire pit as you can, so that you can harvest crops during the night. Also leave a space for the bird cage right by the fire, as it will be constantly used to get more seeds for your farms. Continued…
Making Your Base in the Pig Village and Useful Tips Part 2
If you were able to get 8 cut reeds from the swamp during your initial exploration of the world then use it to make 2 papyrus at the alchemy engine, and then create a bird cage. If you don’t have the cut reeds, then be sure to get them as soon as possible from a swamp so you can start farming crops more effectively. Once the bird cage is complete, make a bird trap and bait it with 1 seed. Wait until a bird becomes trapped, and then put it in the cage. You can now give the bird fruits and vegetables grown in your farms to get extra seeds, as you have a 100% chance to get 1-2 seeds of that plant’s type, and a 50% chance to get an ordinary seed. Additionally, you can also create eggs using the bird by giving it meat, cooked monster meat, small meat, or cooked eggs (you can make eggs fresh again this way). You can then give this egg to the pig king in exchange for 1 gold, or use it as filler in crockpot recipes. Giving the bird old seeds will make them fresh again. Tip: farms can grow in darkness or caves if there’s a light source near them, even just a firefly’s glow.
Once you get your first dragon fruit, continue to give the dragon fruit to the bird and then regrow it on a farm plot until you get a second dragon fruit seed. Then do the same with the rest until all of your farm plots are growing dragon fruits. If you want to be able to continue to get as many dragon fruit seeds as you have farm plots while being able to eat the rest, you can give the bird dragon fruits one-by-one while counting each seed that you get until you get as many seeds as you have plots. Then you can turn the rest of the dragon fruits into dragonpies in a crock pot. Or you can just follow a simplified model: for every 4 farm plots, give 3 dragon fruit to the bird and use 1 dragon fruit for dragonpie. Having extra dragon fruit seeds is good when you’re still in the process of creating more farms, as you can then plant the seeds immediately once you finish a new farm. Just be sure that you keep enough dragon fruit to be able to make lots of dragonpies for the first Winter so that you don’t need to spend all of your time making meaty stews.
You should then try to get a gear from digging graves or killing clockwork monsters in a chess biome, so that you can make a fridge that makes items spoil 50% slower. This will help you store food for the Winter without it going bad as quickly. Try to put the fridge beside your crock pot(s) so you can add ingredients to the crock pot straight out of the fridge.
Other Useful Structures
Making a tent somewhere near your fire pit is usually a good idea, as you can sleep during dusk or night to get 60 health and 50 sanity at the cost of 75 hunger while fast-forwarding to the next day. Tents can be used 6 times before disappearing. Its usefulness depends on your character and play style.
You should also keep some trees, berry bushes, grass tufts, and/or saplings near your fire pit so you can harvest them during the night without leaving your fire pit. Just don’t put too many there, as red hounds can ignite them. Putting an additional fire pit near your main material plant farms allows you to farm them all during the night in times of safety.
When all of this is done, you can then add additional useful structures like more crock pots (food never goes bad while it’s on the crock pot, so you can pre-cook a bunch of meals for later), chests, drying racks (meat hung on the rack doesn’t start to spoil until you take it off), bee boxes (if you put 6+ flowers around each by catching butterflies with a bug net and then planting them as flowers, then you’ll get a good amount of honey for each box, allowing you to make honey poultices and some good honey-based food recipes), farms, etc.
Bolstering Your Defenses
By now, you should have a pretty good base that is nigh or fully self-sustainable in terms of food and resources. Now your biggest threat topside is the hounds and deerclops. To combat the ever-growing number of hounds and deerclops, you will need more pig houses and a meat effigy for insurance. One pig house costs 4 pig skin, 4 boards, and 3 cut stones. You get 1 pig skin every time you kill a werepig, a 50% chance to get 1 pig skin when a pig dies, 2 pig skin for destroying a pig head (4 pig heads can be found around every touch stone and many of them can often be found in the swamp), and 2 pig skin for destroying a pig house. You shouldn’t destroy pig houses near your base as you only get half the resources it takes to create it when using a hammer. Do destroy pig houses that spawned far away from the village, so that you can rebuild them in your base. Pig skin is renewable thanks to respawning pigs, so you can make as many pig houses as you like (the more the better). A meat effigy requires a prestihatitator to craft. The prestihatitator can be crafted with 4 boards, 4 live rabbits (caught using traps), and a tophat (made with 6 silk). Then the meat effigy requires 4 boards, 4 cooked meat (easily acquired from two werepigs), and 4 beard hair. You can get beard hair from beardlings, beardlords (creatures that replace rabbits and bunnymen respectively when your sanity drops below 40%), or by shaving Wilson’s beard. Note: shave the beard as soon as it’s fully grown (on the 3rd stage of growth) after about 15 days, as it is the most efficient. The beard also keeps Wilson warm longer during the Winter, so depending on your play style you may want to keep it if it grows just before or during Winter. The meat effigy should be placed in a safe area in your base where deerclops is unlikely to visit (as he can smash the effigy). It’s a good idea to leave some supplies in a chest near your effigy, such as a football helmet, a log suit, a good weapon, some wood, an axe, and other useful things. These emergency supplies can save your life if whatever killed you is still attacking when you resurrect, especially if it’s during the Winter. Consider using stone walls to protect important areas/structures and to funnel hounds into a chokepoint.
One thing that will help a lot to protect your base from the escalating hound invasions and deerclops is to have a special area in or around your base that is a dedicated battle arena; a place to go when you know something bad is approaching the village. This battle arena should be built around a road so you get the extra movement speed, should have lots of open space to run around, should have lots of fire pits in and around it so you can fight during the night, should have lots of pig houses around the outside and/or inside of it, and shouldn’t have anything important that’s flammable in or around it. Additionally, you can also have one or more chests full of different armour, weapons, and healing items in the battle arena for you to use during fights. Placing cobblestone turf in the battle arena area is also quite advantageous, as it’ll give you extra movement speed just like a road does. Having a dedicated battle arena will help you greatly during any and all fights in your base.
Other Useful Tips #1
You can order befriended pigs to attack another pig by using Force Attack on it and then cancelling the Force Attack by manually moving in any direction. The attacked pig and any other nearby pigs will then attack the aggressor pig until it dies. This can be used to turn morsels, monster meat, stale/rotten meat, or eggs into fresh meat or a pig skin. Additionally, in a larger pig village this trick can result in a pig war, as pigs that weren’t in range to ‘witness’ the initial attack from your befriended pig will end up moving into range to ‘witness’ the other pigs attacking the first one; causing them to become aggressive towards them. Then when a given pig dies, any pigs going after it will revert back to being neutral, and they will then ‘witness’ the other fighting pigs and become aggressive again and again. This will result in a chain reaction that will wipe out all of the pigs in the area, allowing you to get tons of meat and pig skin with just a single morsel/monster meat/meat/egg. Just be sure to grab all of the meat and pig skin off the ground before the pig war concludes and the survivors begin eating it. Starting pig wars becomes more profitable as you get more and more pig houses in a given area, allowing for exponential expansion. Small pig villages with very few pig houses won’t get much out of pig wars (if you can initiate one at all), and will best be farmed by creating werepigs with monster meat and killing them normally. Pig wars start to become very profitable when you have around 20 pig houses, as you’ll get 15 meat and 5 pig skin per war, on average. Note: depleting all of the pigs in your village will make it more difficult to fend off mid-late game hound attacks. Be sure to have some extra pig houses off to the side as a backup base defense if you’re going to start a pig war in the mid-late game.
The aforementioned tip also works for befriended bunnymen and befriended spiders (as Webber), allowing you to also massively farm their respective drops with ease by starting a war.
Placing any food (including seeds, rot, or a powder cake) on the ground inside of a walled off enclosure will result in any nearby pigs walking into the walls, attempting to get the food forever (even when it becomes dusk/night). When a full moon rises, all of these pigs will become werepigs and will continue to run into the walls without breaking them, attempting to get the food whilst ignoring everything else (unless they are attacked). If you befriend 9+ bunnymen and order them to attack the distracted werepigs without attacking them yourself, you’ll be able to quickly kill each one individually until the night ends, getting you lots of meat and pig skin. Mighty Wolfgang with a good weapon can also make short work of individual distracted werepigs after avoiding one swipe. Note: pigs that are trying to get the walled off food may be too distracted to help you fight hounds, deerclops, or other enemies unless one of them gets attacked nearby. Be sure you have some way to quickly remove the food bait or otherwise aggro the pigs if you need them to help you with other mobs. Alternatively befriending one of the pigs and getting it to fight the mob(s) will alert all of the other nearby pigs automatically once it gets attacked.
You can use bird traps in your base in order to get a steady supply of morsels and feathers, even in the Winter when food is often hard to come by. Even if you don’t bait the traps with seeds, birds will continue to occasionally land in them and become trapped. Putting them down next to the ocean boundary is often beneficial if your campfire is near it. If you desperately need meat and not feathers, you can guarantee that you’ll get meat for killing the bird by cooking the bird on a fire rather than killing it from the inventory. One morsel + 3 filler (except twigs) in a crockpot will make meatballs that restore 62.5 hunger. Two morsels, one monster meat, and one regular meat in a crockpot will make meaty stew, which restores 150 hunger. This is great for Winter if you’re in the pig village and don’t have many filler items for meaty stews, as you should have plenty of meat and monster meat as long as you farm the spiders and werepigs. Putting morsels on a drying rack will turn them into a small jerky that gives you 10 sanity, 8 health, and 12.5 hunger (this is great for keeping your sanity up during the Winter time). The same is true for regular traps with rabbit holes nearby. Note: Birds and rabbits do not ‘spoil’ whilst in traps in the base game.
Using a bug net to catch live butterflies will allow you to turn them into a flower by planting them on the ground. Placing 6 or more flowers in/around your base will enable you to have a constant, rapid source of butterfly wings during the day (except during Winter, when butterflies don’t spawn). Attack them while they’re staying in one spot to get them easily without a chase. You can use the excessive amount of butterfly wings to make butter muffins in a crock pot for large amounts of healing and hunger restoration, as filler in any crockpot recipes, or as manure if you leave them on the ground for pigs/a werepig to eat. Putting the flowers in an enclosure mostly surrounded by non-flammable walls will protect the flowers and any bee boxes from fire and will make ‘chasing’ the butterflies down easier.
As soon as you’re getting good amounts of meat/monster meat, you should switch from making meatballs to meaty stews. Meaty stews are extremely efficient for hunger return compared to their required components (even if you inefficiently use a full 4 meat/jerky, meaty stew is still 50% more effective for hunger gain). Later in the game when you have way more meat than you know what to do with, you may want to switch to relying on jerky and mass drying racks, whilst only using morsels and monster meat for backup stews. Even though meaty stews are much more cost and time effective to make than jerky for hunger restoration, jerky lasts 2x longer (and thus you can carry 2x as much of it on journeys before it goes bad) and gives you way more health and sanity return than if you had used the meat in meaty stews (a single jerky gives you nearly 2x the health and 3x the sanity of a meaty stew).
Many enemies won’t attack walls if there is a way to get around them (this does not apply to giants like Deerclops). This means that you can lure most enemies into a pre-designed chokepoint, which you can then defend with tooth traps, pig houses, rabbit hutches, and/or even houndius shootius turrets. This also oddly applies to bees, which are capable of flying over walls if they’re enclosed by them, but not if there’s a valid path around them (even if that path is long and winding). In addition, you can also use walls as a buffer against fire (as long as you’re using stone walls or better, as grass and wood walls burn), red hounds, and deerclops in order to protect your most valuable structures/plants. Walls can also be used to enclose and trap certain neutral mobs such as rabbits, beefalo (when in heat, you can prevent them from smashing the walls by putting grass walls around the interior of the walls [even if they’re destroyed], keeping the beefalo ‘trapped’ in the middle), etc so that you can farm their resources/prevent them from running when you hunt them. Larger mobs like koalefants can’t fit through walls that have 1 tile gaps in them, which you can take advantage of to create entrances and/or save materials (doesn’t work on beefalo for some reason).
Other Useful Tips #2
In addition to fire pits being permanent versions of campfires, they also have a range of benefits over campfires. First, they won’t cause nearby flammable objects to smoulder and catch on fire at high fuel amounts. Second, fire fuel used on a fire pit will burn for twice as long as fire fuel used on a campfire. Third, at max fuel they can burn for 75% of a full day versus a campfire’s 37.5% of a full day (twice as long). Fourth, fire pits are less affected by rain than campfires are, and will last longer. Be sure to consider this info when relying on campfires whilst exploring, and consider placing fire pits in any places you find yourself spending a lot of time in.
You can gain lots of fire fuel quickly and efficiently by making a pitchfork and digging up pieces of terrain. You can then put several stacks of it near your main fire pit for later use. This is much more time efficient than just using logs (1 turf burns for the same amount of time as 1 log, and can be manually acquired much faster). If exploring during Winter, you may even want to carry a max stack of turf with you, as well as a pitchfork (since you want to make the most of your time whilst exploring in Winter). Other good fire fuel includes excess pinecones, log/grass suits on low durability (they instantly add 100% fuel to the fire), excess rot (adds 8.33% fuel), and excess manure (adds 25% fuel). Also, if you intend to fight a boss near a fire pit for a long time during long nights/Winter, be sure to craft some logs into boards first. That way you can instantly fuel a fire from 0% to 100% fuel, and you don’t have to constantly worry about adding more fuel; allowing you to focus on the boss.
Thermal stones heat/cool faster on the ground than in your inventory/backpack. Put them on the ground by a fire to heat them up much more quickly.
Creating cobblestone turf in/around your base with 1 rockyland turf and 1 board will increase your movement speed by 30% like natural roads, which can be useful for increasing efficiency in the base.
When your base, food, and basic resources situation is settled, you should look around for MacTusk’s camps, which can be seen year-round. His camp will not spawn in a swamp biome. MacTusk has a 50% chance to drop the walrus task that can be used to craft the walking cane in order to buff your movement speed by 25% whilst it’s equipped (which is extremely good in all situations throughout the game if used right) and a 25% chance to drop the Tam o’ Shanter which can be worn in the head slot in order to give you a whopping +6.7 sanity per minute (it’s also a tier 2 warmth item, lasts for 25 days before expiring, and can be repaired with the sewing kit). You should attempt to farm MacTusk as much as possible when he shows up during Winter time, up until you have both of his unique drops (he respawns 2.5-3 days after you kill him and each world always has multiple walrus camps). Catching MacTusk with a melee weapon can be an issue as he runs to stay out of melee range. You can kill MacTusk easily by setting up traps around his camp, using ranged weapons, by killing his hounds and then chasing him into a player-placed wall (using the ocean is not recommended as his drops can fall into the water and be lost), by luring his party into a group of pengulls, a spider den, or another area with hostile mobs, by distracting MacTusk via having him aggro on Chester or befriended pigs/bunnymen, or by chasing him far enough away from his camp that he begins to attempt to mindlessly walk back to his camp; ignoring the player completely and allowing you to walk up and stunlock + kill him with any melee weapon. The igloo cannot appear or disappear whilst it is actively on the player’s screen.
You can easily kill gobblers by placing berries, any fruit, or any vegetable item on the ground close to them. They’ll then mindlessly walk up to it and try to eat it over any nearby berry bushes, and you can then stunlock and kill them with any melee weapon. This method is easier and more reliable than running them against the ocean’s edge, and guarantees you’ll get both drumsticks for killing the gobbler. In addition, if you let the gobbler eat 3 red mushrooms, it’ll then die from the damage they inflict, allowing you to kill them without using any weapons.
Pigs Versus Hound Attacks and Deerclops
Hounds
One pig can generally kill 2 to 4+ lone hounds before dying itself, less if a bunch of them mob one pig. It takes 4 days for a pig to respawn after it dies. By day 100 on a default world, 12 hounds will come per attack, and they will attack every 3-4 days. You should have at least 30 pig houses built all around your base by this time so that the hound attacks are easily defeated without issue every time. While 30 is the minimum you should have by now, you could have 60-80+ pig houses built in that amount of time fairly easily if you were regularly and efficiently farming werepigs.
Deerclops
Deerclops, on the other hand, takes 61 pig hits to kill, kills pigs in 2 hits, and has a massive area of effect with every attack; meaning that pigs’ mobbing tendancy will actually result in more of them dying to him than if they came in a slow individual trickle. A strong village of 60+ pigs will usually be able to handle deerclops on their own, with only some of the pig houses and structures at the outskirts of the village possibly being destroyed due to collateral damage. Nonetheless, it’s still annoying to have some of your base’s valuable structures destroyed, and if deerclops attacks while your base is still small, you won’t be able to ignore deerclops. Thus, you should either fight deerclops yourself, or you can use a little trick I discovered to easily lure him away from the village: when you hear deerclops’ deep breathing that signals his approach, simply run at least 6 screen lengths away from your nearest structure and then wait for him to show up. He’ll always spawn 1 to 2 screen lengths from the player’s current location, and thus will have no nearby structures to destroy. If a wormhole is near your base, using that when you hear deerclops coming should guarantee that you get sufficient distance from your base. Once he’s away from your base, just simply run away until he loses interest in following you (Deerclops takes 20 seconds to de-aggro from you on his own, if he hasn’t swung within that time), at which point you can return to your base without having to worry about him destroying your structures or having to fight him (if you so choose). Though I personally like to come back later during the next day with several befriended pigs and a good weapon in order to finish him nice and quickly. Keep in mind that deerclops will remain in the area you previously left him until Winter ends if you do not kill him. This can be bad if you forget about him and run into him again, but it can also be advantageous if you can lead hostile mobs/bosses to him or vice versa. If he destroys the structures and despawns, he will return again before the end of Winter. If he is killed, he will take 6x longer to return, and thus won’t spawn again during that Winter season if the server is on default settings
Helpful Links #1
In this section I’ll provide you with some useful links of various kinds, as well as giving you a quick description of them.
Useful Informative Links
The Don’t Starve community wiki. This wiki is updated regularly and has loads of info on every item, food, structure, enemy, boss, mechanic, etc that you could ever need. Find it here.[dontstarve.wikia.com]
The pig’s page on the Don’t Starve community wiki. This page has some extra info that you may find interesting. Find it here.[dontstarve.wikia.com]
The crock pot’s page on the Don’t Starve community wiki. This page has tons of useful info, with details on every single crock pot dish available in the game. Find it here.[dontstarve.wikia.com]
The set piece page on the Don’t Starve community wiki. This page details every set piece in the game, including the dangerous trapped set pieces that you need to look out for. This was also linked to earlier in the guide, but it’s worth reposting here. Find it here.[dontstarve.wikia.com]
A video showing you how to easily farm drops from werepigs whilst keeping them constantly distracted. The basic gist is that you seal a food item inside of a pen surrounded by walls so that the pigs/werepigs can’t reach them directly (powdercakes are best for this as they practically never spoil). The pigs can’t attack the walls as they need to eat the food first, and they will ignore everything else. Note: you don’t actually need the set piece, nor do you need to rely on other mobs to kill them, you can go up and attack the werepigs yourself without worry about retaliation from them; the only issue is the strong insanity aura they emit. Note #2: Do not create this meat/pig skin farm inside of your village itself, or else your pigs will constantly try to reach the food, and won’t help you in battles.
A video showing you how to quickly set up a bunnyman farm easily. This efficient farming method can get you tons of carrots, meat, bunny puffs, and even beard hair (when you’re nearly insane) with no risk to yourself and minimal material cost. Note: do not build the rabbit hutches close to your main base, as bunnymen will be automatically aggressive towards you if you have any food items that contain meat in your inventory (including crock pot recipes that use it, such as meatballs and meaty stews). Ham Bats are still fine, as it’s technically not a food item.
Don Giani’s channel has lots of other useful DS guide videos too. https://www.youtube.com/user/squeeze95500/videos
A video showing you info and setup instructions for a fire farm in the Reign of Giants DLC. This method takes advantage of several unique mechanics of fire and ice flingomatics to very rapidly farm pigs and/or bunnymen. It does not work on DST due to far slower fire spreading.
A video showing you a good early game base layout, and which structures to prioritize first. Flingomatic info doesn’t apply if you’re playing the base game with no DLCs, but besides that the concept is the same.
A video showing you how to successfully kite several different minibosses and bosses without taking any damage.
A video showing you how to kite almost every mob, miniboss, boss, and raid boss in DS and DST without taking damage.
A video showing you a quick and effective cheese method for the Ancient Guardian. Only requires 4 wood, 6 cut grass, and a decent weapon (Ham Bat works best as it has unlimited durability). Works on any other bosses that can’t destroy campfires/fire pits.
A video showing off various interesting/useful tips and tricks. Notably it includes info on how to dodge enraged Dragonfly’s attacks, a method to harvest beehives and bee boxes without aggroing any of the bees (requires some items that may be difficult to get early on), info on how to efficiently trap koalefants, volt goats, and beefalo without the latter breaking your walls, how to trap guardian pigs in order to generate unlimited free light around them (can be done with as few as 8 walls if you’re tight on resources/want more space), the exact effect of ambient world temperature on food spoilage, and the ability for you to use big tentacles’ origin points as wormholes in the caves.
Joeschmo’s channel has lots of other useful strategy/tips videos too. https://www.youtube.com/user/joeshmocoolstuff/videos
An explanation for Wolfgang’s healing and damage taken mechanics as he gains and loses maximum health due to his hunger fluctuating. Explains that when played correctly, Wolfgang has ‘secret’ stats that essentially give him 33% less damage taken and 33% more health gained from healing items/food. This is essentially done by constantly remaining Mighty whilst in combat, and then letting yourself become as starved as possible before healing with healing items. In combination with all of his other buffs, this explains why he’s such a highly-rated character.
Misuto’s Mentoring: Wolfgang’s Health Mechanic from dontstarve
Helpful Links #2
Useful Workshop Mod Links
Note: None of these Workshop mods change base gameplay, all of them simply give you more detailed information in-game.
My DS Mods Collection. A Workshop mods collection that includes most of the mods listed below, as well as some other minor ones. You can use it to subscribe to all of my mods with one button click. Find it here.
Geometric Placement. Allows you to create a geometric grid that your mouse snaps to segments of, enabling you to place things with perfect spacing. Find it here.
Craft Pot. Shows you suggestions about food items that you can make with the crock pot depending on what item(s) you already have in it, as well as what ingredient(s) you’re missing for each possible recipe. Also enables you to see exactly what you’re going to create in the crock pot with whatever full recipe you currently have added to it. Find it here.
Display Food Values. Simply displays information about food items when you mouse over them, such as the spoilage time and the hunger, health, and sanity that they’ll give you upon consumption. Compatible with the SmartCrockPot mod as well. Find it here.
Health Info. Shows you the current and maximum health of mobs when you mouse over them.
Find it here.
Damage Indicators. Shows damage numbers whenever you or a mob takes damage.
Find it here.
Combined Status. This Workshop mod is extremely helpful. It adds more information about your character and the world itself to your HUD, and is always visible. Find it here.
Minimap HUD MZ. Just like the original ‘Minimap HUD’ mod, it adds a minimap to your HUD. This minimap mod has more features however, such as the ability for you to change the dimensions of the minimap itself and the ability for you to move the minimap to different parts of the screen. Find it here.
Extended Map Icons. Adds additional icons to your map (even more than the original Where’s My Beefalo? mod). Compatible with the HUD Minimap MZ mod as well. Find it here.
More Map Icons. Adds even more additional icons to your map. Compatible with Extended Map Icons and the HUD Minimap MZ mod as well. Find it here.
Finder. Highlights chest/storage containers if you are currently holding an item that there is one or more of within the chest/container, or if you’re hovering over a required item in a crafting recipe within the crafting menu and the chest/container has one or more of that item. Find it here.
DS Equipment Switcher. Makes it so items that you equip with right click will swap positions with any item that you were holding/wearing, rather than putting the item you’re unequipping into the first available inventory/chest slot. This is especially good if you use inventory hotkeys to swap between items, as it means items will always be placed in the slot you equipped a new item from. Find it here.
Wormhole Marks. Simply assigns a persistent colour to the map icon for each pair of wormholes that you’ve travelled through, allowing you to see where each one will lead to. Find it here.
Guide Conclusion
Hopefully you found this guide useful! If I made any mistakes in this guide, or if you just want to tell me something, feel free to do so in the comments. If you enjoyed the guide and want to show your support, leave a rating and a favourite. If you want to check out other guides, workshop items, etc by me then check out my official Steam group here: //ar Hawks