Overview
– This guide has not been updated since Powers were added to the game. Back before Powers were added, this guide contained every detail I could think of, or any of my friends could think of, that was important. This guide will go over just about everything in the game. (Except achievements, screw writing a defensive mode guide) The current meta(s), all towers, how to counter that strategy/tower, general (or maybe comprehensive guides!) on specific strategies, etc. If I’m missing anything or should add anything, then tell me.
Before You Read (Read This)
THIS HAS NOT BEEN UPDATED SINCE POWERS. This guide is very outdated due to powers being added, as they completely change the game. I am not updating this guide, so it’s effectively finished. If anything, it’s an archive of what the meta used to be like.
First off. If you’re new, I would NOT reccommend reading all of this. It’ll likely be very complicated and hard to understand, until you get the grasp of the game. I’m adding (before I upload the guide) 2 sections geared towards the ‘newer’ community, and sure, you probably will understand some of what’s after that, aswell. But, it’ll be very complicated and likely not make much sense.
Second off. I’m not the best player ever. I’ll probably be wrong, or write something that doesn’t make sense. If that is so, correct me, and tell me what I did wrong. I’ll rewrite the section then, so that everybody gets the correct information.
Third Thing. If you don’t understand something, or have a question, or know something I should add – Or just any comments – Please comment, or add me on Steam! I’ll on a lot of the time, and unless I’m asleep, I’ll probably respond within an hour or two at most. I love feedback, that way I know what I should change or keep in this guide, as well as I know what worked well, or what worked badly, in my future guides. (Do I need videos? Are pictures amazing, or are they just spam? Do videos of guides in-action help, or make it worse? Is my voice annoying as fu– and I should just put text in videos? ETC).
Thank you! Good luck with reading the guide, and have a great day!
Acronyms and Stuff
“OP”
“OP” stands for OverPowered, and generally just means “the best”. I’ll possibly overuse the word in this guide, but I’m not sure.
Generally, it also means “unbeatable”, but no strategies are unbeatable.
Meta
“Meta” is a term to describe the best, or most OP, strategies. If you’ve played in the highest arenas, a few examples would be dartling ice village, or dart farm ace. (Some people may argue there is no meta, but personally, I’d disagree).
Strats
Short for “strategies”, and is usually used to describe the towers you bring into the match. (Such as, dart farm ace, would be a strat)
Micro
Micro stands for “microactions”, and is basically how fast you can do that thing.
For instance, seeing a rush, you immediately “micro” a few more towers, or you buy a tack ability.
Generally, this term is only used for “intense micro” — Like, late game (rounds 35+), and using a lot of abilities while buying, using the ability of, and selling, 0/4 mortars.
Antistall
“Antistall” is when you pop all of the naturally-spawned (non-player sent) bloons, quickly. This causes the next round to start instantly. (This is good for farms, but bad for eco)
X/X
When people say something like “0/3 dart”, they mean 0 upgrades on the left side, and 3 on the right side.
RBE
“RBE” stands for red bloons equivelant – It’s basically a bloon’s ‘health”, aka how many pops it will take, until it’s completely gone.
Moab-Class Bloons
“MOAB” currently (back in BTD4 it stood for ‘Mother of all Bloons’) stands for ‘Massive Ornery Air Blimp’, and basically abbreviates for any Moabs, BFBs, and ZOMGs.
Village Glitch
Basically, this is a glitch in the game. Certain tower explosions (bomb ability, x/3 and x/4 dartlings) with a 0/1 village, will actually explode twice. This allows for some nearly broken-OP strategies, if used well.
All Out
When you “all out” an opponent, it is basically either guaranteeing you win, or lose, immediately. You sell all farms (and sometimes all/most towers), and make one last effort to kill your opponent. (This happens a lot in Ceramic Crucible and lower, on round 13)
Early game, mid game, late game.
Early game is considered rounds 1-12
Mid game is considered rounds 11-24
Late game is considered rounds 25+
#Epiclategame is usually rounds 40+ (or higher)
Starting Out – Newplayer Mistakes
This is more (or less) an overview of mistakes I see a lot of new players make.
Use eco, or farms!
I see a lot of new players who never use eco, or farms. 99% of them “all out” on round 13- Which is really obvious, and easy to defend.
Don’t over eco!
I’ve seen players just barely defend natural AI, and continue to spend eco throughout rounds 2-12. That makes it so easy to kill them, even by spending less than $1000 you can die. Don’t be that dumb. (A good time to stop ecoing is from rounds 9, until round 12-13, then start ecoing again – But it does depend on what loadout/strategy)
Starting Out – New Player Strategies
This will overview some good strategies, for newer players. (Due to the fact of only having second tier towers, lots of strategies will be terrible with only 2-2 towers).
Tip: Use your fourth tower! It will have all fourth tiers unlocked – If you get wizard as a fourth, use it! It will help you! There is no reason to ignore this thing at lower tiers (unless you get like supermonkey)
0 Battlescore: If you’re literally just starting out, 0 battlescore, a good strategy (Five towers, only 2-2 of these… The ‘good’ strategies are barely fine) is ninja, bomb, sniper. – Use a 2/1 ninja for general popping power, a 0/0 bomb (or more) to defend grouped bloons, and a 1/2 sniper for camo leads. Of course, as we don’t have good towers, you MUST all out on round 13.
Wizard Battlescore: This is a very good strategy (even in Ceramic Crucible you can win quite a lot of games), and focuses mainly only on the wizard. (Or use farms, if you have those, as it’s better for winning with this strategy than eco is). Basically, just all out on round 13 in most cases. If you think your opponent can defend, you CAN wait – But be careful, as defending a moab with 2nd tier wizards will be a ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥. So try to kill your opponent before this.
Then… Anything: After that, you can easily unlock all towers. Or, you can easily get a much more favoured strategy – Such as dart farm bomb – Just be careful, as you won’t have 4th tiers, so don’t except to maelstrom (how I lost a match…) without 4th tiers.
Farms / Eco
Farms are currently seen by the majority of the community as “meta”, but I’d disagree.
Farms basically give you money per round, instead of money per “time” (per 6 seconds). They allow you to be able to greed early-mid game, and need a lot less defense (as you can always sell farms to buy defense), unless your opponent rushes you. If you do eco, though, you need money (or defense) all of the time, because if you’re ecoing and your opponent sells farms to kill you (like rounds 13+), you’re screwed. But, with farms, you can always not buy a farm, and if they do rush you, you can then buy defense.
Tips: Buy as little defense as logically possible, yet also be ready at any time to buy lots of defense if you opponents rush.
Overall pros: Can immediately sell farms, to get cash.
Allows insane greeding early-mid game
May buy less defense, due to being able to sell farms.
Can all-out players at any time, and has a lot more money to do it with.
Cons: – Takes an extra tower slot.
– Has no popping power
– Takes up a lot of space
“Eco” is the green number at the bottom of your screen.
Basically, every 6 seconds, you get that much money.
By sending the “eco” bloons, you can increase your ‘eco’ (the green number). The goal of eco strats are to get your eco as high as possible, and then survive until late-late game, and then just outlast your opponent when he can’t kill you.
The main eco bloons are (the grouped bloons, mainly) reds, blues, greens, yellows, pinks, whites, and blacks. By sending the next tier of bloons as soon as possible, you’re maximizing your eco.
Tips: Try to remember the “challenge” rounds (r8 yellows, r10 leads, r13 rainbows/zebras, r15 grouped leads, r18 moabs, etc). It’s extremely important to be prepared for an all-out at any time, and to always (hopefully!) defend them.
It’s usually best to send the bloons on the top row, but in certain circumstances, it’s better to hurt your opponent, instead of build eco. For certain bloon sends (spaced whites (r8), some others, all r13+), instead of making money the most amount of money per bloon sent, you don’t.
I always prefer to send grouped whites, then after about 1300 eco, I switch to grouped pinks. Grouped pinks send out much faster than whites/blacks do, so it’s better to send pinks when you make more money, than you can send with whites/blacks.
Pros: If you bring a decent eco strat, you will beat farm players in the late game.
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Cons: You can’t sell farms (obviously), so you have to be prepared for any rush, at any time.
Farms against eco:
Since farms get eco per round, as opposed to per time, you want to make the rounds last as short as possible.
For this, use “antistalling” – You want to pop the bloons as fast as possible, so that the rounds will end as fast as possible, that way you get more money, whereas the eco player gets less.
You will lose late game. There’s no way out of it, unless your opponent is using a bad eco strat, or your 4th is OP. So, you must kill your opponent – Depending on their strategy, the most likely ways to win will be rounds 13, 22, and 24.
Eco against farms:
If possible, you want rounds to last as long as possible – So place your towers away from the start, so that you don’t pop the bloons the second they spawn. (Longer rounds = longer time = more eco boosts)
Try not to use your boosts, unless your opponent forces you to. If you get baited and use a boost… Then your opponent will sell farms, and all out you.
If you can get to rounds 18, you will out-live your opponent if you can survive rounds 20-24. Personally, it’s probably a good idea to save up 5-10k, if you’re unsure how well you can defend. With a good eco strat, you won’t even need a great eco, so saving up 5-10k won’t really harm you much.
Don’t try to kill the farm player! I make this mistake a lot. DO NOT try to kill your opponent rounds 13-24! Unless you are sure you can kill them, or are making them buy defense (which is a great idea), do not all-out and try to kill them. You WILL destroy them in rounds 35+, as you can defend, but they can’t.
Do not send ZOMG’s in late game, until you’re sure they’ll die – I like to wait until rounds 38-45, because I know I can defend all outs until maybe rounds 45-50, but if I try to kill my opponent on round 32, and he defends… then I’m just screwed, as it messed up my eco.
Mixed eco is rarely ever used, so I will explain (to the best of my knowledge) why it’s not advised.
The point of farms is to be able to kill your opponent at any moment, and be able to get cash at any time.
The point of eco is to survive late game.
With mixed eco, you get some farms, but not an insane amount. It makes your opponent buy more things (barely), but not many. You’re also hurting your farms a lot due to this, and is just overall bad.
Farming (In Depth)
Farms are really good, but can be slightly confusing – “Why did you sell farms for a big farm?” “When do I sell farms?” “How many farms are good?” “Why is he outfarming me?”
(Each banana is worth 60$, each crate outputs 600$, the x/2 farm increases those to $90 and $900, respectively)
0-0 Banana farm: Outputs two bananas. You want to get the 1/0 farm ASAP, as the 0-0 farm is worth it in comparison.
1-0 Banana farm: Outputs three bananas.
2/0 Banana farm: Outputs 7 bananas! This is a great farm to spam – Try to get a lot of these.
3/0 Banana farm: Outputs 15 bananas. This is technically better than the 2/0, but barely.
4/0 Banana farm: This outputs (number) of crates! (Each crate is worth 10x the cash of a banana)~ This is a monster farm. It makes you an insane amount of cash per round, and is extremely worth it.
X/2 Banana farm: This makes all bananas worth 50% more, which sounds really good, until you do the math. The only time you want this upgrade, is when you try to get a 4/0 factory (Buy a 4/2 one asap!), or when you try to buy a bank.
X/3 Banana farm: You don’t want this. Trust me.
X/4 Banana farm: This actually gives you eco every round, but it’s weird. It gives you eco ever round (which is insanely good for late game), but it doesn’t give you bananas. It saves up money (click on one, you’ll see in the bottom left)~ It still gives you money per round, but it goes into that place. It can save up up to 20k, and will actually multiply the amount it has at the end of the round.
(By the way, the 0-4 to 2/4 banks actually make different amounts of money. The 2/4 will make 20k about one round faster – Always buy a 1/4 farm, instead of a 0/4)
As 2/0 farms are technically better than 1/0 farms, you want to buy them instead – But, if it’s midway through the round (if 1+ banana has already been dispensed), then it’s better to buy another 1/0 farm. If it’s near rhe end of the round, or just starting a new round, upgrade to a 2/0 instead.
Similarly, the 3/0 farm is better than the 2/0, but barely. Instead of saving up for the 3/0, you should spam to about 5-6 (depends on situation and strategy) 2/0 farms, and then buy a 3/0. (If the map is too small for this (say, snowy castle), buy as many 2/0 farms as possible, then start buying 3/0 farms with extra money.
After you get 5-6 2/0 farms, you have a decision to make. Are you going to buy a bank (x/4), or a factory? (4/2)
If you can (if it’s better to) go late game, I’d reccomend buying a bank. They make lots more money in the long run. (After buying a bank, I’d reccommend buying factories until round 30-32, or when your screen is full)
If you need to end the game early (say, going against an eco player // a strategy that will outlast you), you should buy a factory. That way, you can try to kill your opponent ASAP.
Some people (I’ve seen it once) actually will buy TWO banks, instead of a factory afterwords. I haven’t tested this, so I can’t comment on it. If someone has more experience and can talk about it, I’d love to give you credit for bringing it to my attention! Credit to Fake Hero – We’ll test it later, but possibly if you get an “early” bank (rounds 13-14), you may want to buy a second bank.
If you want a bank, buy it at the end of the round (before the next one starts) – This way you get the extra (80) eco from it.
If you have a bank, try to collect it at the start of a round. Keep in mind, it multiplies at the end of the round, so try to get it to 20k before collecting. (Or, if it’s about to be a very fast round, you may want to collect it at ~14k, to buy a factory)
I’m not going to write everything he said in the video, but we both have lots of information. for lots more information on farming. (it’s by Naturespirit, I had no part in making that video)
Individual Strategies
This section will more or less go over popular/meta strategies, their strengths and weaknesses, tips for them, and tips on how to beat them.
Overview: By far, this is the most popular strategy in the game (At the time of writing this). It has a few strengths and weaknesses, but overall it’s really dang solid, and one of the most competitive strategies.
Strengths: Dart excells at early game, and is extremely cheap for (dart only) rounds 1-20. The spike-polts are very good for rounds 8-15
Weaknesses: Regen leads, and very late game.
Lategame Potential: With good micro, you can defend until round 38 – But, the main-main majority of players can only defend until rounds 32-34, then will die.
More Information: No extra information.
Beating DFA: Round 11, regen lead + regen (spaced) zebras, potentially followed by some whites, can easily make your opponent boost, depending on their placement and towers used.
This is extremely similar to DFA, except instead of ace, it has bomb. This makes it much better for early game (3/0 bomb), yet also means it does worse late game.
This used to be meta, but is no longer meta.
Try to defeat this strategy by surviving later, and if that’s not plausible, try to either make them sell a bank/factory on r18/r20. If you have better farms, try to drain them r20+, but if not, be careful, as they can always get up a SMFC and 4/2 bombs.
Overview: This is a pretty fun strategy, but it will usually get destroyed by an aggressive opponent.
Strengths: It’s overall fairly decent at everything.
Weaknesses: Early game, extreme late game. Regen leads.
Lategame Potential: Round ~35
More Information: This used to be semi-meta, yet nowadays, it’s usually able to be beaten by other strategies.
Beating It: One thing that kills a lot of NFM players, are regen leads + regen zebras/rainbows. If you can get a couple of regen leads slightly past the mortar, then follow with zebras and/or rainbows (maybe one set of camo aswell, just to be sure they don’t buy a 4/2 mortar and have 0 camo detection) the leads will usually block the ninja, and the zebras/rainbows will just massively regrow due to not being broken, and yeah… I’ve even seen a 2/3 mortar and 4/2 ninja (boosted) die to this. A lot of the time.
Besides that, pressure it early game – Like, rounds 2-4. Sometimes they’ll get a 2/1 ninja and a mortar (spaced pinks will require a 3/1 ninja), or sometimes they’ll buy a 3/1 ninja, which requires a mortar to defend greens. Just pressure this strategy early game, and force them to buy defense.
Overview: This strategy is the first of which that abused the “village glitch”.
Strengths: Late game, this strategy is pretty damn good. It’s one of the harder to beat strategies in late game.
Weaknesses: Early game- Kind of.
Lategame Potential: ~38
More Information: Read “village glitch”.
Beating It: Do NOT allow this strategy to go to late game, unless you know you can beat it in the lategame, which is hard to do.
Overview: Uses dartling and bomb to defend rushes, very good for grinding medallions.
Strengths: Extremely good for grinding – Is well rounded overall.
Weaknesses: Getting outfarmed.
Lategame Potential: ~35
More Information: N/A
Beating It: Try to outfarm this strategy, or outlast it, if you know you can.
Overview: This uses the village (0/1) to double the popping power, as well as razor rotors, to just shred everything.
Strengths: Late game, this strategy can be painful to deal with, if they have enough money and space.
Weaknesses: Lots of aggression on short maps, and space.
Lategame Potential: Rounds 35+, if enough space.
More Information: DO NOT USE PURSUIT. Because the heli has 1 popping power per dart, the village doubles its popping power, and is highly reccommended for rounds 12+. Besides that, getting 2-4 razor rotors (then eventually spamming apache’s) is very good.
Beating It: If it’s a short map, you can usually do good against it, with spaced blimps. Also, round 20, send a BFB, as that will require an apache at least. (on any map).
Overview: This is the best (maybe second best, will test today) late game strategy. It uses only dartling, for rounds 1-12, then rounds 13-18 it will use a 0/1 to 2/1 village, then will use ice shards and the ice ability for lategame, plus 2/4 dartlings and the 2/4 dartlings.
Strengths: Late game, this strategy is one of the true best.
Weaknesses: Getting outfarmed, or dying mid-game.
Lategame Potential: 45+
More Information: Read “village glitch”.
Beating It: Do NOT allow this strategy to go to late game, unless you are using ninja village ice. You absolutely must beat this strategy before round 24. If you do not, they will easily be able to defend round 45+.
If this strategy does go past round 20, you should send spaced blimps. Spaced BFBs –> all out spaced BFBs/ZOMGs. Do not send grouped blimps (unless rounds 45+), as they will be easy to defend.
Overview: This is very similar to the heli farm village strategy, and plays very similarly. (Read that strategy: This one will assume all information from that one, and will only add extra information)
Strengths: Late game.
Weaknesses: Early game (somewhat)
Lategame Potential: Rounds 38+ (on a decent map for it)
More Information: Round 13 all out can be defended with slightly more than a 0/1 village, and two 3/2 helis.
Beating It: Try to kill it round 13, or before round 25 (assuming you can’t outlast it), as it will become a pain to deal with, and very hard to kill.
Overview: This is a very unique strategy, and can be hard to pull off. It will excell in late game, and is potentially the best late-game strategy.
Strengths: Late game
Weaknesses: Regen leads + zebras/rainbows (maybe camo to force a x/2 village aswell) will require an ice shards and village.
Lategame Potential: Rounds 45+
More Information:
Beating It: You absolutely must beat this before late game. Round 13 can be costly for NVI, and same for round 15. DO NOT allow this strategy to go past round 24.
Ran out of space. Check out part 2 (down below)
Individual Strategies (Part 2)
This is simply a continuation of the first part. I ran out of text-space, so time for the second part!
Overview: This is one of the two general “boat farm” strategies, and is often used on water maps. This one is better for later game.
Strengths: Early game, later game (in comparison), BFBs.
Weaknesses: Midgame – And regen bloons, without lots defense. As well as a ZOMG, without selling a lot/all farms.
Lategame Potential: ~35
More Information: This strategy is better than boat farm boomer is for late game, so try to outlast that. Use boat for early game, and get lots of 1/1 or 0/1 boats – Then, midgame, use 3/2 boats and 2/2 wizards. (Then, use the phoenix and boat abilities to destroy bfbs, or phoenixes to defend enemy-sent bloons r18+)
If your opponent sends a moab, try to buy a 3/0 wizard the instant the moab pops, so that all the ceramics get launched back.
>>>>insert gif<<<<<
Beating It: Regen bloons can be deadly without lots of wizards. (Or, if they just have a 3/0 wizard, start a regrow farm, and DESTROY them!)
Overview: This strategy is fairly similar to the one above, and is the other “meta” “water map” strategy, that I see a lot.
Strengths: Early & mid-game.
Weaknesses: Late game, camo leads // camo ceramic (if relying on boomer).
Lategame Potential: ~32, more realistically round 24.
More Information: This is better than wizard for mid game, but in late game, wizard is much better.
Beating It: This strategy is insanely good rounds 8-13 due to boomer, but it’s bad for defending camo leads (if they get a 2/3 boat, that can be exploited on round 15 with camgrow leads and zebras/rainbows – Assuming they get a turbo charge, this won’t work, but a lot of the time even a turbo can’t defend). Feel free to try to kill them with camgrow leads, or feel free to win later game, and just outlast them.
Overview: This strategy relies on mostly tack early game, wiz midgame, and tack to clean up.
Strengths: “Insides” – Ceramics from moabs/bfbs, and can get lots of farms early-midgame.
Weaknesses:
Lategame Potential: I’m not sure – Need to test.
More Information: Using tack early game will shred, then wizards for camo and to pop moabs/bfbs/zomgs – Then using maelstrom to destroy the ceramics and such.
Beating It: -Need to test-
Overview: This strategy relies on tack, and excells on long maps, with loops or circles. (Such as Park)
Strengths: Early game – Late game grouped ZOMGs – Fun!
Weaknesses: Early BFB/ZOMG.
Lategame Potential: ~35? Need to test.
More Information: Use the maelstrom! It’s insanely powerful in this strategy, and is insane.
Beating It: Send a camgrow lead on r12 to force a 0/2 village and a Ring of Fire. Then, if you can’t outlast it, on rounds 20-22 harass it with spaced bfbs / spaced ZOMGs. They’ll usually die to this, or be forced to sell all farms for defense (even then, oftentimes die).
Send spaced zomgs late-game, because the maelstrom has infinite popping power.
Overview: This strategy plays nearly identically to the one above, but it has cheaper camo/lead detection (signal flare), and can’t use village for cheaper farms. Also, this strategy can mortar stall late game.
Overview: This strategy excells at late game, but is (very) hard to pull off midgame.
Strengths: Very early game, very late game.
Weaknesses: Midgame
Lategame Potential: 45+
More Information: This strategy mostly relies on a 0/1 village and 3/2 boats for midgame, (as the village doubles the popping power). Lategame, it relies on 0/1 villages, and spammed 4/x boats, aswell as ice shards.
Beating It: Beat it early game. Camgrow leads + regen rainbows/zebras, can be extremely deadly, and likely the best way to beat it.
Miss Dimon? Diamond?
Smart Rushing Overview
This section will overview rushing. Why you should do it, and tips on doing “smart” rushing.
Rushing is an extremely important aspect to BTD Battles. (It even has “Battles” in the name…)
The main purpose of rushing is to make your opponent buy defense, which stops them from ecoing/buying farms. (Or, even selling farms or dying!)
A secondary aspect of it, is all bloons (under ceramics) actually give you more eco (but not all as efficient) This means you’re not only hurting them, but helping yourself (minorly) in the process!
You (as well as your opponent) get three boosts. These increase the attack speed of your towers by >>>><<<<. You also have a “bloon boost”, which increases the sent-bloonspeed by >>>><<<<.
You want to save your boosts for good opportunities, and also waste your opponent’s boosts.
Good Strategies/Practices: If you are going to all out your opponent, make them use a boost first. That increase in tower defense speed is amazing, and makes defending trivial.
If you do a slight rush, and your opponent boosts (and still doesn’t buy enough defense) – Rush them, with a bloon boost! This will force them to buy lots of defense or die, and likely sell a lot of farms to do so. (Or, for eco, oftentimes will die!)
Layering: Something you can do, is “layer” bloons. It’s effectively sending slower bloons, then faster ones, that way your opponents towers get overwhelmed easier. (Or, on r15, sending a ceramic then pinks will entirely hide it, the pinks stop you from spiking it, and can be extremely deadly!)
Another version of this, is “round layering” – Which is layering bloons, with the naturally sent Ai. For instance, rounds 15 or 23, sending leads can be insanely deadly, if at the right time. Or, timing a moab send with natural leads, can also be deadly. (Even on round 5, sending spaced pinks is considered round layering)
Good Practices: Try to send as few bloons as possible, that will make your opponent buy enough defense, or die. No need to send $3000 to make your opponent spend 2k (unless you think they will die anyways)~ Try to think how much money you’re spending now, and how much defense it’ll make him buy. Can you spend less money later, and make them buy more? (such as grouped whites) – And how much it will hinder their farms/eco.
Round 4 – Pinks
Round 6 – Blacks
Round 8 – Regen-whites followed by yellows
Round 11 – Regen leads + Spaced regen zebras (sometimes followed by grouped whites) (especially against dart strategies)
Round 13 – Zebras/rainbows
Round 15 – Regen leads + zebras/rainbows, OR ceramic + Pinks
Round 18 – MOAB
These are rounds where your opponent can send very-spooky bloons, in the majority of strategies. (Basically, things you should think about sending, and how to defend)
Round 4 – Spaced pinks
Round 8 – Yellows (And regen whites/blacks)
Round 10 – Leads
Round 13 – Rainbows/Zebras
Round 15 – Grouped Leads + Ceramics
Round 18 – Moabs
Round 20 – BFB’s / Grouped Moabs
Round 22 – ZOMG’s / Grouped BFBs
Round 24 – Fast-Cooldown ZOMGs
Battles Memes
#EpicLateGame
A youtuber (MasterOv or Molt, need to figure out) made this seriously, but the community has turned it into a complete joke.
PULLED A BLAZE IT
A youtuber (known as ‘BTD Blaze It’) died on round 8, so the community has decided that dying to yellows is considered, as pulling a Blaze It. (No worries if it happens to you – We all die to yellows sometimes).
Other
The village reduces the cost of any tower upgrades near it, by 10%. So, if you have village and are farming, buy a 0/0 village, THEN a 4/x or 1/4 farm, to save money.
(need to check files for info >>>><<<<
If you’re low on lives (assuming it’s not a tournament or KOTH rules), it doesn’t matter in most cases. If you’re at 100 lives and your opponent has 150, so what? That shouldn’t amount to really anything. It’s a really good idea to leak some lives to pinks or whatever and to get a farm/eco advantage, rather than to screw yourself over later.
Each “spike” has an amount of 20, for a total of 60 extra “pops”.
Now, what I see a lot of people do, is just put them all at the back of the track, effectively giving them 210 lives, instead of 150. But, this is a major mistake.
Spike use 1 Leads. Every once in awhile, I see someone use spikes to pop the 2 leads I send on round 10. Usually I don’t notice, as I don’t expect it, then a few rounds later I’m like “wtf”~ Against a DFA player, this can save them a jugg, and even if I do notice and send 2 more, their spike made me lose $90 (or $162 for regen leads).
Spike use 2) If you’re ecoing against a farm player, if your strategy has a slow start – (e.g basically only heli), then you may want to use one spike at the very front of the map. This causes the first round to go by super quickly, and will actually stop the farm player from getting a banana. Basically, it’s a trade off. You get less money, but your opponent gets slightly less than you do. I actually really like doing this, as with eco, getting slightly less money won’t matter much, as your eco is capped by how many bloons you can send. But, the farm player’s eco isn’t capped by that, and he’ll actually be missing out on a lot more farms than you’d expect.
Spike use 3) Leads (regen) – If you’re using a strategy that’s bad against leads, such as dart farm ace, (ESPECIALLY on a map like Yin Yang!), if your opponent sends regen leads (and other bloons at the same time, but not required), if a couple of regen leads get past by your jugg, then all of your towers will target that bloon, and there will just be a massive regrow farm past your towers. This is probably the #1 easiest way to die, while also getting good eco/farms.
Spike use 4) Regen bloons in general – If your opponent gets any regen bloons past your towers (say, a regen rainbow that was turned into a pink ATM), that pink can deal a lot of damage when it regens – But, if you just spike it, that’s 5 “pops” worth of a spike, to save 20+ lives.
Spike use 5) Spiking moabs/ceramic – This might not make sense at first, but imagine you have a tower with a pierce, of say, 4. If this tower shoots at a moab, it’ll deal 1 RBE-worth of health. But, if you place, say, 3 spikes on that moab (this is what most players use spikes for), and your towers get it to ceramics, that one tower will now deal 4 RBE-worth of health, per hit. Now, for all of your towers… this is extremely good.
Spike use 6) If you’re extremely low on lives, and are scared, of course you can spike your exit. I’d highly NOT reccomend this unless you’re about to die, though.
Lawlzer – This is me! I wrote this! LOVE ME
Fake Hero – He helped me learn a lot about the engineer bloontrap, and has overall helped with any inquiries I had, or didn’t understand. He also saw the first non-completed “draft” of this guide, and gave me lots of tips and reccommendations for what to change.
Give me tips on what I did well, and what I did bad! If any of my information is incorrect, please correct me on it, and I’ll gladly give you credit for fixing any mistakes I may have made.
If you have stuff I should add, just give me the idea and I’ll write about it (modding, battle arenas, grinding strats, anything)
If you want videos on defending rushes, or videos on strategies, or just simply overall gameplay, I can record them and post them here // PM you them.
Have a great day, thank you for reading!
Very Useful Information
Red: 1
1
Blue: 1.4
2
Green: 1.8
3
Yellow: 3.2
4
Pink: 3.5
5
White: 2
11
Black: 1.8
11
Lead: 1.2
23
Zebra: 1.8
23
Rainbow: 2.2
47
Ceramic: 2.5
104 + 10
MOAB: 1
616 + 200
BFB: 0.25
3164 + 700
ZOMG: 0.18
16656 + 4000
TestBloon (never seen it): 81
23