Everything you ever need to know about shooting Nazis in the head...

This guide provides zeroed target indicators for three rifles for a variety of distances, wind strengths and ammo types. It is principally designed to demonstrate the difference that muzzle velocity and damage upgrades make to targeting in different environmental situations.

• 50m unadjusted
  
• 100m unadjusted
  
• 200m unadjusted
  
• 300m unadjusted
  
• 100m range adjusted
  
• 200m range adjusted
  
• 300m range adjusted

Wind effects tested were light and strong

• Regular ammo was tested at all distances in light and strong winds
  
• Suppressed ammo was tested at all distances in light winds only

There are charts for the following rifles only:

• Carcano M91/41 (unmodified)
  
• Mosin Nagant M91/30 (unmodified)
  
• M1903 Springfield (upgraded).

The Carcano has the lowest muzzle velocity available (DLC excluded) and the Mosin has the highest. I’m not actually sure where the Springfield sits between these two as mine has been upgraded after my initial playthrough. I was lazy when I started and kept the default Springfield, and while it is a fine weapon, with hindsight I would now start with the Mosin and get the additional zoom and power for long shots. That said, if you look at the upgraded Springfield’s chart, you’ll see that it far out performs any unmodified rifle, and this would also be the case for any other upgraded rifle in the game.

All tests were performed on the Shooting Range on Authentic (Hardcore) mode* In this mode, the Mosin and Carcano are fixed at 6x zoom and the Springfield is fixed at 4x zoom.

Each chart has quite a lot of information and can seem confusing at first, but once you know what you’re looking at I hope that they will be useful at making you badass at shooting Nazis in the head.

Each chart shows a T-Post Tactical scope and a wind meter. The wind meter has indicators for light wind and strong wind. The T-Post has target markers for 25 shots (26 if you include the 0m baseline marker):

• Suppressed ammo with light wind @ 50m, 100m, 200m and 300m unadjusted, and @ 100m, 200m, and 300m adjusted
  
• Regular ammo with no wind @ 50m, 100m, 200m and 300m unadjusted
  
• Regular ammo with light wind @ 50m, 100m, 200m and 300m unadjusted, and @ 100m, 200m, and 300m adjusted
  
• Regular ammo with strong wind @ 50m, 100m, 200m and 300m unadjusted, and @ 100m, 200m, and 300m adjusted

Each marker is where you need to aim if you want to shoot someone in the head. If you would prefer to shoot people in the testicles, you will need to make your own appropriate adjustments.

• Suppressed ammo is orange
  
• No wind is black
  
• Light wind is green
  
• Strong wind is red

The colour coded triangular marks across the top of the T-Post show wind drift for each ammo type at different wind strengths

The colour coded triangular marks down the side of the T-Post show drop for each ammo type at different distances (50m, 100m, 200m and 300m)

I didn’t include any shots over 300m. If that’s your thing then you either already know what you’re doing and you don’t need this guide or you’re insane.

I hope this helps. Now go be badass and shoot some Nazis in the head (on Authentic* mode)

* If you are not playing on Authentic (Hardcore) mode yet, stop what you are doing and change the difficulty setting. The aiming assists, minimap, target markers and all the other bells and whistles that Sniper Elite (Hard) mode provides completely destroy any immersion or authenticity in the game. Sniper Elite mode isn't hard, it just throws a lot of bad guys at you to make up for all the assistance you receive. Playing on Authentic (Hardcore) mode is like playing a different (and much better) game.